Gazing Back, The Low Roof Of The
House Was Lost To View Before Long, But The Trees - The Row Of Twenty-
Five Giant Ombu-Trees Which Gave The Place Its Name - Were Visible,
Blue In The Distance, Until We Were Many Miles On Our Way.
The undulating country had been left behind; before us and on both
sides the land, far as one could see, was absolutely flat, everywhere
green with the winter grass, but flowerless at that season, and with
the gleam of water, over the whole expanse.
It had been a season of
great rains, and much of the flat country had been turned into shallow
lakes. That was all there was to see, except the herds of cattle and
horses and an occasional horseman galloping over the plain, and the
sight at long distances of a grove or small plantation of trees,
marking the site of an estancia, or sheep and cattle farm, these
groves appearing like islands on the sea-like flat country. At length
this monotonous landscape faded and vanished quite away, and the
lowing of cattle and tremulous bleating of sheep died out of hearing,
so that the last leagues were a blank to me, and I only came back to
my senses when it was dark and they lifted me down, so stiff with cold
and drowsy that I could hardly stand on my feet.
Next morning I found myself in a new and strange world. The house to
my childish eyes appeared of vast size: it consisted of a long range
of rooms on the ground, built of brick, with brick floors and roof
thatched with rushes. The rooms at one end, fronting the road, formed
a store, where the people of the surrounding country came to buy and
sell, and what they brought to sell was "the produce of the country" -
hides and wool and tallow in bladders, horsehair in sacks, and native
cheeses. In return they could purchase anything they wanted-knives,
spurs, rings for horse-gear, clothing, yerba mate and sugar; tobacco,
castor-oil, salt and pepper, and oil and vinegar, and such furniture
as they required - iron pots, spits for roasting, cane-chairs, and
coffins. A little distance from the house were the kitchen, bakery,
dairy, huge barns for storing the produce, and wood-piles big as
houses, the wood being nothing but stalks of the cardoon thistle or
wild artichoke, which burns like paper, so that immense quantities had
to be collected to supply fuel for a large establishment.
Two of the smallest of us were handed over to the care of a sharp
little native boy, aged about nine or ten years, who was told to take
us out of the way and keep us amused. The first place he took us to
was the great barn, the door of which stood open; it was nearly empty
just then, and was the biggest interior I had ever seen; how big it
really was I don't know, but it seemed to me about as big as Olympia
or the Agricultural Hall, or the Crystal Palace would be to any
ordinary little London boy. No sooner were we in this vast place than
we saw a strange and startling thing - a man, sitting or crouching on
the floor, his hands before him, the wrists tied together, his body
bound with thongs of raw hide to a big post which stood in the centre
of the floor and supported the beam of the loft above. He was a young
man, not more than twenty perhaps, with black hair and a smooth, pale,
sallow face. His eyes were cast down, and he paid no attention to us,
standing there staring at him, and he appeared to be suffering or ill.
After a few moments I shrank away to the door and asked our conductor
in a frightened whisper why he was tied up to a post there. Our native
boy seemed to be quite pleased at the effect on us, and answered
cheerfully that he was a murderer - he had committed a murder
somewhere, and had been caught last evening, but as it was too late to
take him to the lock-up at the village, which was a long distance
away, they had brought him here as the most convenient place, and tied
him in the barn to keep him safe. Later on they would come and take
him away.
Murder was a common word in those days, but I had not at that time
grasped its meaning; I had seen no murder done, nor any person killed
in a fight; I only knew that it must be something wicked and horrible.
Nevertheless, the shock I had received passed away in the course of
that first morning in a new world; but what I had seen in the barn was
not forgotten: the image of that young man tied to the post, his bent
head and downward gaze, and ghastly face shaded by lank black hair, is
as plain to me now as if I had seen him but yesterday.
A little back from the buildings were gardens and several acres of
plantation - both shade and fruit trees. Viewed from the outside, it
all looked like an immense poplar grove, on account of the double rows
of tall Lombardy poplar trees at the borders. The whole ground,
including the buildings, was surrounded by an immense ditch or moat.
Up till now I had lived without trees, with the exception of those
twenty-five I have spoken of, which formed a landmark for all the
country round; so that this great number - hundreds and thousands - of
trees was a marvel and delight. But the plantation and what it was to
me will form the subject of a chapter by itself. It was a paradise of
rats, as I very soon discovered. Our little native guide and
instructor was full of the subject, and promised to let us see the
rats with our own eyes as soon as the sun went down; that would finish
the day of strange sights with the strangest of all.
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