Guarda!"
(take care) of the people, who carried small fire-engines {330b} and
buckets of water on their shoulders, and knocked everything over
that was in their way. Mounted and foot soldiers and watchmen
rushed about, and Pashas rode down with their attendants to urge the
people on in extinguishing the fire, and to render them assistance.
Unfortunately almost all these labours are fruitless. The fire
takes such hold of the wooden buildings painted with oil colours,
and spreads with such incredible rapidity that it is stopped only by
open spaces or gardens. One fire often destroys several thousand
houses. The unfortunate inhabitants have scarce time to save
themselves; those who live some distance off hastily pack their
effects together and hold themselves prepared for flight at any
moment. It may easily be supposed that thieves are not rare on such
occasions, and it too often happens that the few things the poor
people have saved are torn away from them in the bustle and
confusion.
The second fire broke out in the following night. Every one had
retired to sleep, but the fire-watch rushed through the street,
knocking with his iron-mounted staff at the doors of the houses and
waking the people. I sprang terrified out of bed, ran to the
window, and saw in the direction of the fire a faint red light in
the sky. In a few hours the noise and redness ceased. They have at
last begun to build stone houses, not only in Pera but also in
Constantinople.
I left Constantinople on the evening of the 7th of October, by the
French steamer Scamander, one hundred and sixty-horse power.
The passage from Constantinople to Smyrna, and through the Greek
Archipelago is described in my journey to the Holy Land, and I
therefore pass on at once to Greece.
I had been told, in Constantinople, that the quarantine was held in
the Piraeus (six English miles from Athens), and lasted only four
days, as the state of health in Turkey was perfectly satisfactory.
Instead of this, I learnt on the steamer that it was held at the
island of AEgina (sixteen English miles from Piraeus), and lasted
twelve days, not on account of the plague but of the cholera. For
the plague it lasts twenty days.
On the 10th of October we caught sight of the Grecian mainland.
Sailing near the coast, we saw on the lofty prominence of a rock
twelve large columns, the remains of the Temple of Minerva. Shortly
afterwards we came near the hill on which the beautiful Acropolis
stands. I gazed for a long time on all that was to be seen; the
statues of the Grecian heroes, the history of the country came back
to my mind; and I glowed with desire to set my foot on the land
which, from my earliest childhood, had appeared to me, after Rome
and Jerusalem, as the most interesting in the earth.
