The dry land, which is only exposed during the hot season,
is the result of the decay of vegetable matter. The ashes of the grass
that is annually burnt, by degrees form a soil. We are even now
witnessing the operation that has formed, and is still increasing, the
vast tract of alluvial soil through which we have passed. There is not a
stone nor even a small pebble for a distance of two hundred miles; the
country is simple mud.
"April 9. - Passed the old channel at 11.45 a.m., after much labour, and
we found the long five-mile cutting pretty clear, with the exception of
two or three small obstructions. At 5.30 p.m. we reached the Bahr
Giraffe, from which extremely narrow channel we had first commenced our
difficult work of cutting through many miles of country.
"Who could believe the change? Some evil spirit appears to rule in this
horrible region of everlasting swamp. A wave of the demon's wand, and an
incredible change appears! The narrow and choked Bahr Giraffe has
disappeared; instead of which a river of a hundred yards' width of clear
running water meets us at the junction of our cutting. As far as the eye
can reach to the E.S.E., there is a succession of large open sheets of
water where a few days ago we saw nothing but a boundless plain of marsh
grass, without one drop of water visible. These sheets of water mark the
course of a river, but each lake is separated by a dam of floating
vegetation. The volume of water is very important, and a stream is
running at the rate of three miles an hour. Nevertheless, although in
open water, we now find ourselves prisoners in a species of lake, as we
are completely shut in by a serious dam of dense rafts of vegetation
that have been borne forward and tightly compressed by the great force
of this new river. It is simply ridiculous to suppose that this river
can ever be rendered navigable. One or two vessels, if alone, would be
utterly helpless, and might be entirely destroyed with their crews by a
sudden change that would break up the country and inclose them in a trap
from which they could never escape.
"We passed the night at anchor. Many hippopotami are snorting and
splashing in the new lakes.
"April 10. - After a hard day's labour, a portion of the fleet succeeded
in cutting through the most serious dam, and we descended our old river
to the dubba, or dry mound, where we had first discovered vestiges of
the traders. The No. 10 steamer arrived in the evening. The river is
wider than when we last saw it, but is much obstructed by small islands,
formed of rafts of vegetation that have grounded in their descent. I
fear we may find the river choked in many places below stream. No
dependence can ever be placed upon this accursed river. The fabulous
Styx must be a sweet rippling brook, compared to this horrible creation.
A violent wind acting upon the high waving plain of sugar-cane grass may
suddenly create a change; sometimes islands are detached by the gambols
of a herd of hippopotami, whose rude rambles during the night, break
narrow lanes through the floating plains of water-grass, and separate
large masses from the main body.
"The water being pent up by enormous dams of vegetation, mixed with mud
and half-decayed matter, forms a chain of lakes at slightly-varying
levels. The sudden breaking of one dam would thus cause an impetuous
rush of stream that might tear away miles of country, and entirely
change the equilibrium of the floating masses.
"April 11. - I sent a sailing vessel ahead to examine the river, with
orders that she should dip her ensign in case she met with an
obstruction. Thank God, all is clear. I therefore ordered the steamers
to remount their paddles.
"We started at 10 p.m.
"April 12. - At 11.30 p.m. we met five of Ghatta's [*] boats bound for
the White Nile. These people declared their intention of returning,
when they heard the deplorable account of the river.
[*Footnote: one of the principal Khartoum ivory and slave-traders]
"At 2 a.m. we arrived at our old position, close to our former wood
station in the forest.
"April 13. - Started at 11.30 a.m. The river has fallen three feet since
we were here, and the country is now dry. Mr. Baker and I therefore
walked a portion of the way upon the banks as the diahbeeah slowly
descended the stream. There were great numbers of wild fowl; also
hippopotami, and being provided with both shot guns and heavy rifles we
made a very curious bag during the afternoon, that in England or
Scotland would have been difficult to carry home; we shot and secured
two hippopotami, one crocodile, twenty-two geese, and twenty ducks.
"At 7 p.m. we arrived at the station of Kutchuk Ali. I sent for the
vakeel, or agent, commanding the company, to whom I thoroughly explained
the system and suppression of the slave trade. He seemed very
incredulous that it would actually be enforced; but I recommended him
not to make the experiment of sending cargoes of slaves down to
Khartoum, as he had done in previous years. He appeared to be very
confident that because his employer, Kutchuk Ali, had been promoted to
the rank of sandjak, with the command of a government expedition, no
inquiry would be made concerning the acts of his people. No greater
proof could be given of the insincerity of the Soudan authorities in
professing to suppress the slave trade, than the fact that Djiaffer
Pacha, the governor-general of the Soudan, had given the command of an
expedition to this same Kutchuk Ali, who was known as one of the
principal slave-traders of the White Nile.
