Methinks I Hear You Say, "That Is Unnecessary, As, No
Doubt, It Was Much The Same As Before." No Such
Thing, I assure you;
for, in the first place, my style of travelling was infinitely
superior, being provided, by the
Moorish Governor, with a double
guard, and having also eleven mules allowed me to carry my baggage,
which, with two muleteers, my interpreter, and servant, made no
despicable appearance. I had, besides, to contend with very stormy
weather, which gave the country quite a different aspect. From
incessant rains, the rivers had overflowed, and nearly the whole of
the country was under water, which rendered our journey not only
difficult but dangerous. We were obliged to halt for two days, near a
village, till the waters subsided; and during this time we feasted on
fine fresh-water fish, and wild fowl. On the third day we proceeded;
and here I must not omit an occurrence which served still further to
give me an insight into the general character of this once powerful
people.
Fortunately (or unfortunately, some would say, who weighed the perils
I had to encounter in the accomplishment of my wishes) I passed, on
the day the inhabitants were meeting, the annual Socco of St. Martin,
so called from its being held at the place whence the river of that
name takes its source. I did not pass immediately over the spot, but
so near, that I could perceive a multitude of people assembled
together. To obtain a better view of what they were about,
notwithstanding the representations of my conductors, that no
Christian was suffered to be present at this fair, I proceeded towards
the crowd; but before I could reach the place, I was assailed by
hundreds of people, who saluted me with such a discharge of stones,
and even some fire-arms, that I was extremely glad to make good my
retreat, which, with the aid of my guard, I effected, without
sustaining any injury.
Enraged at being thus foiled in my attempt, I hit upon a plan the most
likely to succeed in gratifying my curiosity; which was, to send the
Serjeant to the Cadi, to insist upon going up to the fair, and
threatening to complain to the Emperor if he refused me. This had the
desired effect. A deputation was ordered by the Cadi, with assurances
that I was welcome among them. Accordingly, I repaired once more, to
the scene of action.
The great show of cattle, sheep, &c. exposed for public sale, by men
and women half naked, first attracted my attention; which was however
soon diverted from them to a Moorish juggler, and a rope-dancer, the
latter performing several feats of great muscular strength. The people
had formed a complete circle, sitting cross-legged round the
rope-dancer. He was making a good collection, when the arrival of a
celebrated _tweeb_ (the native term for a physician) spoiled his
sport. At the sound of an instrument somewhat resembling a horn, they
all started up, and flocked to the standard of this professor of the
healing art, leaving the poor rope-dancer to finish his performance,
or not, as he pleased.
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