The Dooty Of The Town, At My Request, Gave Me A
Draught Of Water, Which Is Generally Looked Upon As An Earnest Of Greater
Hospitality, And I Had No Doubt Of Making Up For The Toils Of The Day By
A Good Supper And A Sound Sleep.
Unfortunately, I had neither one nor the
other.
The night was rainy and tempestuous, and the Dooty limited his
hospitality to the draught of water.
July 20th. In the morning I endeavoured, both by entreaties and threats,
to procure some victuals from the Dooty, but in vain. I even begged some
corn from one of his female slaves, as she was washing it at the well,
and had the mortification to be refused. However, when the Dooty was gone
to the fields, his wife sent me a handful of meal, which I mixed with
water and drank for breakfast. About eight o'clock I departed from
Doolinkeaboo, and at noon stopped a few minutes at a large Korree, where
I had some milk given me by the Foulahs. And hearing that two Negroes
were going from thence to Sego, I was happy to have their company, and we
set out immediately. About four o'clock we stopped at a small village,
where one of the Negroes met with an acquaintance who invited us to a
sort of public entertainment, which was conducted with more than common
propriety. A dish made of sour milk and meal, called _Sinkatoo_, and beer
made from their corn, was distributed with great liberality; and the
women were admitted into the society, a circumstance I had never before
observed in Africa. There was no compulsion, every one was at liberty to
drink as he pleased; they nodded to each other when about to drink, and
on setting down the calabash, commonly said _berka_, (thank you). Both
men and women appeared to be somewhat intoxicated, but they were far from
being quarrelsome.
Departing from thence, we passed several large villages, where I was
constantly taken for a Moor, and became the subject of much merriment to
the Bambarrans; who, seeing me drive my horse before me, laughed heartily
at my appearance. He has been at Mecca, says one, you may see that by his
clothes; another asked me if my horse was sick; a third wished to
purchase it, &c., so that I believe the very slaves were ashamed to be
seen in my company. Just before it was dark, we took up our lodging for
the night at a small village, where I procured some victuals for myself
and some corn for my horse, at the moderate price of a button; and was
told that I should see the Niger (which the Negroes call Joliba, or _the
great water_) early the next day. The lions are here very numerous. The
gates are shut a little after sunset, and nobody allowed to go out. The
thoughts of seeing the Niger in the morning, and the troublesome buzzing
of musketoes, prevented me from shutting my eyes during the night; and I
had saddled my horse and was in readiness before daylight; but, on
account of the wild beasts, we were obliged to wait until the people were
stirring, and the gates opened.
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