They Passed Over Loose Hillocks Of
Sand, Into Which The Camels Sank Knee-Deep.
Some of these hills were from
twenty to sixty feet in height, with almost perpendicular sides.
The
drivers use great care as the animals slide down these banks; they hang
with all their weight upon the tails, to steady their descent; otherwise
they would fall forward, and cast their burdens over their heads. Dark
sand-stone ridges form the only landmarks among these billows of sand.
After a fortnight's travelling, vegetation once more appeared, in the
form of scattered clumps of herbage and stunted shrubs, the leaves of
which were most acceptable to the camels. Herds of gazelles crossed the
path, hyenas abounded, and the footsteps of the ostrich were perceived.
As they went on, the face of the country improved, the valleys became
greener, and the colocynth and the kosom, with its red flowers, were in
full bloom, "The freshness of the air, with the melody of the songsters
that were perched among the creeping plants, whose flowers diffused an
aromatic odour, formed a delightful contrast to the desolate region
through which they had passed." In the neighbourhood was a tribe - of the
Gunda Tiboos, who supported themselves and their horses chiefly on
camels' milk. The chief of this people was quite delighted by a coarse
scarlet robe and a small, mirror with which he was presented. During the
march, the natives committed several thefts upon the caravan, the members
of which in their turn could hardly be prevented from making reprisals.
At length they reached Lari, in the province of Kanem, the most northern
part of Bornou, - a place containing two thousand inhabitants, who dwell
in huts constructed of rushes, with conical tops. They had now reached an
important stage on their journey; for "the great lake Tchad, glowing with
the golden rays of the sun in its strength," appeared within a mile of
the elevated spot on which they stood. Next morning, Major Denham
hastened to the banks of this great inland sea. The shore was covered
with multitudes of water-fowl, which were so tame that they were not the
least alarmed by his presence. The lake swarmed with fish, which the
females caught easily by wading in a short way, and then driving them
before them to land.
They travelled by the margin of the lake, and came to a large town called
Woodie, which was inhabited by an exclusively negro population. In a few
days, an invitation was sent to them to visit the shiek of Bornou, at
Kouka. On their way, they passed the Yeou, a stream about fifty yards
broad, which flows into the lake. Two canoes, constructed of planks
fastened together with cords, and capable of holding about thirty men in
each, lay upon the banks, for the transport of goods and passengers. The
camels and horses swam across with their heads tied to the boats.
Three days afterwards, they arrived at Kouka, where the shiek of Bornou
resided. As they emerged from the forest which skirts the town, they saw
a large body of cavalry drawn up in lines on each side of the road, as
far as the eye could reach. As the Arab troops approached, the horsemen
of Bornou raised loud shouts, accompanied by the clamour of their rude
martial instruments. They then, in detached troops, galloped up to the
Arabs, and suddenly wheeled about, crying, "Blessing! blessing! sons of
your country! sons of your country!" shaking the spears over their heads.
The Bornouese crowded close upon them, and almost prevented them from
moving, till Barca Gana, the shiek's generalissimo, rode up upon a fine
Mandara steed, and ordered his troops to fall back. After some delay,
they were ushered into the presence of the chief of Bornou. He sat upon a
carpet, in a small dark room, which was ornamented with weapons of war,
and was plainly attired in a blue gown and shawl turban. He seemed to be
about forty-six years of age; his countenance was open, and conveyed the
idea of mildness and benevolence. He inquired, "What was their object in
coming?" They answered, "To see the country, and to give an account of
its inhabitants, produce, and appearance, as their sultan was desirous of
knowing every part of the globe." He replied that they were welcome, and
that he would give them every facility. He assigned to them some huts,
which they had no sooner entered than they were much incommoded by crowds
of visitors. They were most liberally supplied with provisions; besides
bullocks, camel loads of wheat and rice, butter, and honey, they had a
daily allowance of rice mixed with meat, and paste made of barley flour.
On a second interview, they delivered to the sheik the present intended
for him; he examined the gun and brace of pistols attentively, and seemed
much pleased with them. He was delighted when he was told that his fame
had reached the king of England, and said, "This must be in consequence
of our having defeated the Begharmies;" and one of his most distinguished
chiefs asked, "Did he ever hear of me?" "Certainly," was the reply; and
all the court exclaimed, "Oh, the king of England must be a great man!"
The sheik was much gratified by the present of a musical snuff-box, of
which he had previously expressed strong admiration. The whole populace
were afterwards gratified by a discharge of sky-rockets.
On the 2d March, the travellers set out to Birnie, to visit the sultan.
At this court it was the fashion for the grandees to emulate each other
in rotundity, and when the desired result could not be attained by high
feeding, they used wadding, and in spite of the sultry climate, put on a
vast number of garments, one over another. Surrounded by three hundred of
these great men, sat the sultan, enclosed in a species of cane basket
covered with silk, his features scarcely discernible beneath his huge
turban.
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