By mistake I took the wrong road, and did not discover my
error until I had travelled near four miles; when, coming to an eminence,
I observed the Niger considerably to the left.
Directing my course
towards it, I travelled through long grass and bushes, with great
difficulty, until two o'clock in the afternoon; when I came to a
comparatively small, but very rapid river; which I took at first for a
creek, or one of the streams of the Niger. However, after I had examined
it with more attention, I was convinced that it was a distinct river; and
as the road evidently crossed it, (for I could see the pathway on the
opposite side,) I sat down upon the bank, in hopes that some traveller
might arrive, who would give me the necessary information concerning the
fording place; for the banks were so covered with reeds and bushes, that
it would have been almost impossible to land on the other side, except at
the pathway; which, on account of the rapidity of the stream, it seemed
very difficult to reach. No traveller, however, arriving, and there being
a great appearance of rain, I examined the grass and bushes, for some way
up the bank, and determined upon entering the river considerably above
the pathway, in order to reach the other side before the stream had swept
me too far down. With this view I fastened my clothes upon the saddle,
and was standing up to the neck in water, pulling my horse by the bridle
to make him follow me, when a man came accidentally to the place, and,
seeing me in the water, called to me with great vehemence to come out.
The alligators, he said, would devour both me and my horse, if we
attempted to swim over. When I had got out, the stranger, who had never
before seen a European, seemed wonderfully surprised. He twice put his
hand to his mouth, exclaiming in a low tone of voice, "God preserve me!
who is this?" But when he heard me speak the Bambarra tongue, and found
that I was going the same way as himself, he promised to assist me in
crossing the river; the name of which he told me was Frina. He then went
a little way along the bank and called to some person, who answered from
the other side. In a short time, a canoe with two boys, came paddling
from among the reeds. These boys agreed, for fifty Kowries, to transport
me and my horse over the river, which was effected without much
difficulty, and I arrived in the evening at Taffara, a walled town; and
soon discovered that the language of the natives was improved from the
corrupted dialect of Bambarra to the pure Mandingo.
CHAPTER XVIII.
_Inhospitable reception at Taffara. - A Negro funeral at Sooha. - The
Author continues his route through several villages along the banks of
the Niger, until he comes to Koolikorro. - Supports himself by writing
saphies - reaches Maraboo - loses the road; and, after many difficulties,
arrives at Bammakoo.
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