The deepest silence
reigns - not the song of a single bird is heard."
On the 4th May, M. Caillie departed from Tombuctoo, and in a few days
arrived at Aroan, a town containing 3000 inhabitants, on the route to
which neither herb nor shrub was seen; and their only fuel was the dung
of camels. On the 19th May he prepared to cross the desert, along with a
large caravan. Scarcely a drop of water could be found, and many of the
wells were dried up. "Before us appeared a horizon without bounds, in
which our eyes distinguished only an immense plain of burning sand,
enveloped by a sky on fire. At this spectacle the camels raised long
cries, and the slaves mournfully lifted up their eyes to heaven." They
suffered much from thirst during this dreary march, and their strength
was almost exhausted before they reached the springs of Telig. After many
days harassing toil, they came to the frontiers of Morocco, and M.
Caillie, having crossed the Atlas, contrived to make his way to Tangier.
CHAPTER XXXV.
_Lander's Journey_.
In the preceding chapter the reader must have admired the fortitude and
resolution manifested by Lander, when, after the death of Clapperton, he
had to travel to the coast alone. His attempt to reach the Niger shewed
that his disposition was ardent and enterprising, and that, but for
untoward circumstances, he would have effected his object. On his return
to England, he again offered his services to government, and accompanied
by his brother John, embarked from Portsmouth on the 9th January 1830,
and reached Cape Coast Castle on the 22d of the following month.
Having hired several native attendants, one of whom, called Pascoe, was
well qualified to act as an interpreter, the travellers sailed to
Badagry, and landed on the 22d. They resided some days at this place, the
chief being unwilling to part from them till he had obtained as presents
almost every article which he coveted. As if in contrast with the beauty
of the country, the inhabitants of Badagry are a dissolute, sensual, and
greedy race. While they resided in the town, the Landers were invited to
visit the spot where the Mahomedans perform some of their religious
rites. Two Mussulmen guided them to the place, which was about a mile
distant. They came to a bare space of sandy ground, surrounded with
trees; here they found the Mussulmen engaged in prostration and ablution.
Each group as it arrived, was received with flourishes of musical
instruments. Every one was clad in his best apparel. "Loose robes, with
caps and turbans, striped and plain, red, blue, and black, were not
unpleasingly contrasted with the original native costume of fringed
cotton thrown loosely over the shoulders, and immense rush hats.
Manchester cloths, of the most glaring patterns, were conspicuous amongst
the crowd; but these were cast in the shade, by scarfs of green silk
ornamented with leaves and flowers of gold, and aprons covered with
silver spangles." No sooner were the religious ceremonies finished, than
there was a general discharge of fire-arms; and clarionets, drums, and
strings of bells betokened the joy felt on the occasion.
The soil of Badagry is fertile, and consists of a layer of fine white
sand over loam, clay, and earth; the sand is so deep as to render walking
difficult. The inhabitants depend for subsistence on fishing, and the
cultivation of the yam and Indian corn. They fish with nets and spears,
and also with a peculiarly formed earthen pot, which they bait with the
palm nut. The more wealthy possess bullocks, sheep, goats, and poultry.
The houses, which are neatly constructed of bamboo, and thatched with
palm leaves, contain several rooms; almost all have yards attached to
them, to the cultivation of which some little attention is paid.
On the night of the 31st March they set sail from Badagry in the chief's
war canoe, which was about forty feet long, and propelled by poles. The
banks of the river were low, covered with stunted trees; and a
slave-factory and fetish hut were the only buildings visible. At
intervals, at a winding of the river, they saw "a noble and solitary
palm-tree, with its lofty branches bending over the water's edge." At
this point, the atmosphere is loaded with pestilential miasmata. For a
considerable way the water is almost hid by a profusion of marine plants,
but these gradually disappear, and the boughs of beautiful trees hang
over the banks, and screen the travellers from the sun's rays. A number
of aquatic birds resort to this place; and the ear is absolutely stunned
with the noise of parrots and monkeys. They landed, and walked on to Wow,
which is an extensive town. After passing through several villages, their
route lay through woods and patches of open ground, till they came to a
beautiful and romantic glen in the very heart of a wood. It abounded in
butterflies, whose shining wings displayed an infinity of colours.
The Landers now followed nearly the same route which Clapperton had
pursued on his second journey. On the 6th April, they arrived at Jenne,
where they were well received by the governor, who had recently been
appointed to his office by the king of Badagry. The inhabitants are
industrious and temperate, living chiefly on vegetable food. The chief
labour, however, is devolved upon the females, who carry merchandize from
place to place upon their heads, and bear with great patience their heavy
burdens. Their path continued to lie through a most beautiful and fertile
region, covered with exuberant vegetation. With the slightest attention
and care, the soil would yield an abundant return; but the people are
satisfied if they merely supply the cravings of nature, contenting
themselves with slightly turning up the ground with the hoe. As they left
Chouchow, a delightful morning following a rainy night, caused the
flowers and shrubs to exhale delicious perfumes.
Enter page number
PreviousNext
Page 137 of 146
Words from 139019 to 140024
of 148366
