On Each Side Of The Path
Were Granite Mountains Of Irregular Shapes, The Tops Of Which Were
Covered With Trees, And In The Hollows Of Their Slopes Were Clusters Of
Huts.
A great number of birds frequented the valley, and the delightful
notes of a few were strangely contrasted with the harsh and discordant
croaking of others.
"The modest partridge appeared in company with the
magnificent Balearic crane, with his regal crest; and delicate humming
birds hopped from twig to twig with others of an unknown species; some of
them were of a dark shining green; some had red silky wings and purple
bodies; some were variegated with stripes of crimson and gold; and these
chirped and warbled from among the thick foliage of the trees."
They arrived at Katunga on the 18th May, and immediately had an interview
with king Mansolah. His head was ornamented with a turban resembling in
shape a bishop's mitre, to which many strings of coral were attached.
"His robe was of green silk, crimson silk damask, and green silk velvet,
which were all sewn together like pieces of patchwork. He wore English
cotton stockings, and neat leathern sandals of native workmanship. A
large piece of superfine light blue cloth, given him by the late Captain
Clapperton, served as a carpet." The monarch, after some hesitation,
granted them permission to visit Botissa and the neighbourhood, and said
he would dispatch a messenger to the neighbouring princes, to facilitate
the progress of the travellers through their dominions. The city had a
melancholy and cheerless aspect; the walls had fallen to decay, and the
streets were nearly deserted.
After passing Kushee, the travellers were joined by a Borgoo _fatakie_,
or company of merchants. Their route lay through a vast and lonely
forest, infested by robbers. At one opening a band of twenty marauders
armed with lances and bows and arrows, appeared from behind the trees,
and stationed themselves in the middle of the path before the men who
carried the baggage, who were much frightened, and seemed disposed to
throw down their burdens and run away. But when Richard Lander presented
his gun at their leaders, their courage failed, and they took to flight.
On the road to Kiama, the appearance of the country was completely
changed, and the road lay through a vast tract of mountain forest, the
haunt of savage animals. The crossing of a narrow brook introduced them
to a people speaking a different language, of different manners and creed
from those of Yarriboo. Lander gives the following account of the first
night which they spent in this new territory: - "We occupy a large round
hut, in the centre of which is the trunk of a large tree, which supports
the roof; it has two apertures for doors, above which are a couple of
charms, written in Arabic. It is now eleven P.M.; our attendants, with
several of their fellow-travellers, are reposing on mats and skins, in
various parts of the hut. Bows and arrows, and quivers ornamented with
cows' tails, together with muskets, pistols, swords, lances, and other
weapons, are either hanging on the wall or resting upon it. The scene is
wild and singular. Outside our hut it is still more striking. There
though it rains and thunders, the remainder of the _fatakie_, consisting
of men, women, and children, are sitting on the ground in groups, or
sleeping near several large fires, which are burning almost close to the
hut, whilst others are lying under the shelter of large spreading trees
in its immediate vicinity. Their only apparel is drawn over their half
naked persons; their weapons at their sides, and their horses are grazing
near them." After entering Kiama, they were introduced to King Yarro, who
sat by himself upon a heap of buffalo hides; the walls of the apartment
were ornamented with portraits of George IV. the Duke of York, the Duke
of Wellington, and Lord Nelson; opposite to these were suspended horse
accoutrements, and on each side were scraps of paper, on which were
written sentences from the Koran. On the floor lay a confused heap of
muskets, lances, and other weapons. The king assigned to them a dwelling
near the palace. The travellers had one day the gratification of
witnessing an African horse-race. The entertainment was preceded by the
ceremonies of Mahometan devotion. The head Mallam read a few pages from
the Koran, after which a sheep was sacrificed; the blood was then poured
into a calibash, and the king and some of his subjects washed their hands
in it, and sprinkled the drops on the ground. After this a few old
muskets were discharged, and the king and his chiefs rode about the
ground, armed, and in gay attire. It was evening before the races
commenced, which were attended by a joyful and noisy crowd. The monarch
and his guards came upon the ground in procession, mounted on handsome
steeds. The horses and their riders soon appeared. The men wore turbans
of blue and white cotton, red morocco boots, and robes of every possible
hue. The horses were gaily caparisoned, and had strings of bells hanging
from their necks. The signal for starting was given, and they set off at
full gallop. "The riders brandished their spears, the little boys
flourished their cows' tails, the buffoons performed their antics,
muskets were discharged, and the chief himself, mounted on the finest
horse on the ground, watched the progress of the race, while tears of
delight were starting from his eyes. The race was well contested, and
terminated only by the horses being fatigued, and out of breath."
On the 5th June they left Kiama, and arrived at a large town called
Kakafungi. The inhabitants are a good-humoured and civil race, often
amusing themselves at night by dancing in the moonlight to the sound of a
large drum. The road from this place was marked by many foot-prints of
wild beasts; but the travellers only saw a few antelopes, which
immediately took to flight.
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