Early In The Morning Of The 20th, However, Their Goods Were Embarked In
Two Canoes, And They Set Off.
Some of their Boussa friends implored a
blessing upon them before they started.
They had not proceeded far before
they found that the smaller of the two canoes was so unsafe, that they
were compelled to lighten it much. After passing several towns of
considerable size, they reached a large and beautiful island called
Patashie, very fertile, and adorned with groves of lofty palm-trees. One
of the Landers went to Wowow to procure better canoes, while the other
remained on the island with the baggage. At length they succeeded in
their object, and were again borne along the river. For some time they
met with no obstacle; but at one part they came to a reef of rocks, to
clear which they had to proceed through a very narrow channel, overhung
with the branches of trees, and more than half filled with rushes and
tall grass. Soon after passing into the main river, they landed at the
town of Lever, or Layaba, which contains a great number of inhabitants,
and was then in the hands of the Fellatahs; here they remained till the
4th October. The river at this place ran deep, and was free from rocks.
Its width varied from one to three miles; the country on each side was
flat, and a few insignificant villages were scattered at intervals along
the banks. Yet at a little distance farther on, the banks were again
overshadowed by large trees, the openings of which disclosed a fertile,
and apparently populous country.
Near Bajiebo, they noticed several large canoes of a peculiar build, the
bottom being of a single tree, and built up with planks to a considerable
height. Upon these, sheds thatched with straw, were erected, which served
the people for dwellings. Beyond this place the Niger separated into
large branches, and the travellers went on by the eastward one; after
they had passed an island, these again united.
After passing a high hill of curious granite rock, they came to a double
range of rocky mountains, near which was a small village, where the
canoe-men were exchanged. The hills are gloomy and romantic, fringed in
some parts with stunted shrubs, which overhang deep precipices; they are
haunted by wild beasts and birds of prey. In the very middle of the river
a rocky island, called Mount Kesa, rose to the height of nearly 300 feet,
and its steep sides had an imposing appearance.
They next passed the island of Belee; the sound of music was heard, and
an ornamented canoe appeared, conveying an important personage, called by
the sounding title of "the King of the Dark Water," who conducted them to
his "island-domain," which is called Zagoshi, and is situated in the
midst of the Niger. It is fifteen miles long, and three broad; its mud
surface, which is frequently overflowed, lies almost on a level with the
water, and is so soft, that even in the floors of the huts, a slender
cane could be thrust down to any depth. Yet it is well cultivated, and
productive; and its manufactures are superior to those of Nyffe; the
cloth especially is reckoned the best in Africa. Wooden vessels, mats,
shoes, horse trappings, and rude agricultural instruments, are likewise
made. The travellers saw many natives plying their various occupations in
the open air. The chief of the place possesses a naval force of 600
canoes.
Opposite Zagoshi, on the eastern shore of the river, stands Rabba, the
largest and most flourishing city of Nyffe. The surrounding territory is
fertile, and produces large crops of grain; the people possess many
flocks and herds. The travellers' stock of goods to be exchanged for
provisions was now so nearly exhausted by the delays they had met with,
and the extortions of the chiefs and natives, that they began to be in
difficulties, and were compelled to part with several valuable articles,
and among the rest with Mungo Park's robe.
Before they left Zagoshi, they exchanged their two canoes for one, which
appeared more commodious, and better adapted for the navigation of the
river. It was fifteen feet long, and four broad, perfectly strait, and
flat-bottomed. They had not gone far, however, when the canoe began to
leak, and they discovered that it had been patched up in many places,
After they had paddled about thirty miles, they were in great danger from
the hippopotami, which rose very near to them, and came "snorting,
splashing, and tumbling all round the canoe." They fired a shot or two,
but the noise only called up more of these unwieldy monsters to the
surface. The boatmen, who had never before been exposed in a canoe to
such huge and formidable beasts, trembled with fear and apprehension, and
absolutely "wept aloud; their terror was not a little increased by the
dreadful peals of thunder that burst over their heads, and the awful
darkness that prevailed, which was only broken at intervals by vivid
flashes of lightning. We were told that they frequently upset canoes in
the river, when every one in them is sure to perish. They came so close
to us, that we could reach them with the butt-end of a gun." To add to
their terror, as the night advanced the storm increased. The wind was so
furious, that it dashed the water several times over the sides of the
canoe, so that she was nearly filled. The little vessel became almost
unmanageable; at length, however, they got to a bank about the centre of
the stream, and fastened the boat to a thorny tree. The weather became
calmer at midnight, after which the rain descended in torrents,
accompanied with terrific thunder and lightning. They were obliged
constantly to bale. Next morning they perceived several mountains, which
were so elevated and distant, that their blue summits could scarcely be
distinguished from the clouds.
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