The Duke Of York, The Duke
Of Wellington, And Lord Nelson; Opposite To These Were Suspended Horse
Accoutrements, And On Each Side Were Scraps Of Paper, On Which Were
Written Sentences From The Koran.
On the floor lay a confused heap of
muskets, lances, and other weapons.
The king assigned to them a dwelling
near the palace. The travellers had one day the gratification of
witnessing an African horse-race. The entertainment was preceded by the
ceremonies of Mahometan devotion. The head Mallam read a few pages from
the Koran, after which a sheep was sacrificed; the blood was then poured
into a calibash, and the king and some of his subjects washed their hands
in it, and sprinkled the drops on the ground. After this a few old
muskets were discharged, and the king and his chiefs rode about the
ground, armed, and in gay attire. It was evening before the races
commenced, which were attended by a joyful and noisy crowd. The monarch
and his guards came upon the ground in procession, mounted on handsome
steeds. The horses and their riders soon appeared. The men wore turbans
of blue and white cotton, red morocco boots, and robes of every possible
hue. The horses were gaily caparisoned, and had strings of bells hanging
from their necks. The signal for starting was given, and they set off at
full gallop. "The riders brandished their spears, the little boys
flourished their cows' tails, the buffoons performed their antics,
muskets were discharged, and the chief himself, mounted on the finest
horse on the ground, watched the progress of the race, while tears of
delight were starting from his eyes. The race was well contested, and
terminated only by the horses being fatigued, and out of breath."
On the 5th June they left Kiama, and arrived at a large town called
Kakafungi. The inhabitants are a good-humoured and civil race, often
amusing themselves at night by dancing in the moonlight to the sound of a
large drum. The road from this place was marked by many foot-prints of
wild beasts; but the travellers only saw a few antelopes, which
immediately took to flight. No trees defended them from the burning sun,
and they could scarcely proceed from weakness. They saw the sun set
behind some magnificent clouds, whilst they had yet a great way to go;
and the narrow foot-path, overgrown with bushes and rank grass, was
hardly discernible by the light of the moon. In the afternoon, all had
been silent in the forest; but at night the jackal, the hyena, and the
baboon had forsaken their retreats, and mingled their dismal howl with
the chirping of innumerable insects.
They reached Boussa on the 17th June. The appearance of the Niger at this
place disappointed them much. "Black rugged rocks rose abruptly from the
centre of the stream, causing strong ripples and eddies on its surface."
At its widest part, the Niger here did not exceed a stone-cast in
breadth.
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