In the forenoon, I went to the top of a high hill to the
southward of Soolo, where I had a most enchanting prospect of the
country.
The number of towns and villages, and the extensive cultivation
around them, surpassed every thing I had yet seen in Africa. A gross
calculation may be formed of the number of inhabitants in this delightful
plain, by considering, that the King of Kasson can raise four thousand
fighting men by the sound of his war-drum. In traversing the rocky
eminences of this hill, which are almost destitute of vegetation, I
observed a number of large holes in the crevices and fissures of the
rocks, where the wolves and hyaenas take refuge during the day. Some of
these animals paid us a visit on the evening of the 27th: their approach
was discovered by the dogs of the village; and on this occasion it is
remarkable, that the dogs did not bark, but howl in the most dismal
manner. The inhabitants of the village no sooner heard them than, knowing
the cause, they armed themselves; and providing bunches of dry grass,
went in a body to the inclosure in the middle of the village where the
cattle were kept. Here they lighted the bunches of grass, and, waving
them to and fro, ran hooping and hallooing towards the hills. This
manoeuvre had the desired effect of frightening the wolves away from the
village; but, on examination, we found that they had killed five of the
cattle, and torn and wounded many others.
February 1st. The messengers arrived from Kaarta, and brought
intelligence that the war had not yet commenced between Bambarra and
Kaarta, and that I might probably pass through Kaarta before the Bambarra
army invaded that country.
Feb. 3d. Early in the morning, two guides on horseback came from
Kooniakary to conduct me to the frontiers of Kaarta. I accordingly took
leave of Salim Daucari, and parted for the last time from my
fellow-traveller the blacksmith, whose kind solicitude for my welfare had
been so conspicuous; and about ten o'clock departed from Soolo. We
travelled this day through a rocky and hilly country, along the banks of
the river Krieko, and at sunset came to the village of Soomo, where we
slept.
Feb. 4th. We departed from Soomo, and continued our route along the banks
of the Krieko, which are everywhere well cultivated, and swarm with
inhabitants. At this time they were increased by the number of people
that had flown thither from Kaarta, on account of the Bambarra war. In
the afternoon we reached Kimo, a large village, the residence of Madi
Konko, governor of the hilly country of Kasson, which is called Sorroma,
From hence the guides appointed by the King of Kasson returned, to join
in the expedition against Kajaaga; and I waited until the 6th, before I
could prevail on Madi Konko to appoint me a guide to Kaarta.
Feb. 7th. Departing from Kimo, with Madi Konko's son as a guide, we
continued our course along the banks of the Krieko until the afternoon,
when we arrived at Kangee, a considerable town. The Krieko is here but a
small rivulet; this beautiful stream takes its rise a little to the
eastward of this town, and descends with a rapid and noisy current until
it reaches the bottom of the high hill called Tappa, where it becomes
more placid, and winds gently through the lovely plains of Kooniakary;
after which, having received an additional branch from the north, it is
lost in the Senegal, somewhere near the falls of Felow.
Feb. 8th. This day we travelled over a rough stony country, and having
passed Seimpo and a number of other villages, arrived in the afternoon at
Lackarago, a small village, which stands upon the ridge of hills that
separates the kingdoms of Kasson and Kaarta. In the course of the day we
passed many hundreds of people flying from Kaarta, with their families
and effects.
Feb. 9th. Early in the morning we departed from Lackarago, and a little
to the eastward came to the brow of a hill, from whence we had an
extensive view of the country. Towards the south-east were perceived some
very distant hills, which our guide told us were the mountains of
Fooladoo. We travelled with great difficulty down a stony and abrupt
precipice, and continued our way in the bed of a dry river course, where
the trees meeting over head made the place dark and cool. In a little
time we reached the bottom of this romantic glen, and about ten o'clock
emerged from between two rocky hills, and found ourselves on the level
and sandy plains of Kaarta. At noon we arrived at a Korree, or
watering-place, where, for a few strings of beads, I purchased as much
milk and corn-meal as we could eat: indeed, provisions are here so cheap,
and the shepherds live in such affluence, that they seldom ask any,
return for what refreshments a traveller receives from them. From this
Korree we reached Feesurah at sunset, where we took up our lodging for
the night.
Feb. 10th. We continued at Feesurah all this day, to have a few clothes
washed, and learn more exactly the situation of affairs before we
ventured towards the capital.
Feb. 11th. Our landlord, taking advantage of the unsettled state of the
country, demanded so extravagant a sum for our lodging, that suspecting
he wished for an opportunity to quarrel with us, I refused to submit to
his exorbitant demand; but my attendants were so much frightened at the
reports of approaching wars that they refused to proceed any further,
unless I could settle matters with him, and induce him to accompany us to
Kemmoo, for our protection on the road. This I accomplished with some
difficulty, and by a present of a blanket which I had brought with me to
sleep in, and for which our landlord had conceived a very great liking:
matters were at length amicably adjusted, and he mounted his horse and
led the way.
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