We Had Not Travelled More Than A Mile Before My Attendants Insisted On
Stopping That They Might Prepare A Saphie, Or Charm, To Ensure Us A Safe
Journey.
This was done by muttering a few sentences, and spitting upon a
stone, which was thrown before us on the road.
The same ceremony was
repeated three times, after which the Negroes proceeded with the greatest
confidence; every one being firmly persuaded that the stone (like the
scape-goat) had carried with it every thing that could induce superior
powers to visit us with misfortune.
We continued our journey without stopping any more until noon, when we
came to a large tree, called by the natives Neema Tula. It had a very
singular appearance, being decorated with innumerable rags or scraps of
cloth, which persons travelling across the wilderness had, at different
times, tied to the branches; probably, at first, to inform the traveller
that water was to be found near it; but the custom has become so
sanctioned by time, that nobody now presumes to pass without hanging up
something. I followed the example, and suspended a handsome piece of
cloth on one of the boughs; and being told that either a well or pool of
water was at no great distance, I ordered the Negroes to unload the asses
that we might give them corn, and regale ourselves with the provisions we
had brought. In the meantime, I sent one of the elephant-hunters to look
for the well, intending, if water was to be obtained, to rest here for
the night. A pool was found, but the water was thick and muddy, and the
Negro discovered near it the remains of a fire recently extinguished, and
the fragments of provisions, which afforded a proof that it had been
lately visited, either by travellers or banditti. The fears of my
attendants supposed the latter; and believing that robbers lurked near
us, I was persuaded to change my resolution of resting here all night,
and proceed to another watering place, which I was assured we might reach
early in the evening.
We departed accordingly, but it was eight o'clock at night before we came
to the watering place; and being now sufficiently fatigued with so long a
day's journey, we kindled a large fire, and lay down, surrounded by our
cattle, on the bare ground, more than a gun-shot from any bush; the
Negroes agreeing to keep watch by turns to prevent surprise.
I know not indeed that any danger was justly to be dreaded, but the
Negroes were unaccountably apprehensive of banditti during the whole of
the journey. As soon, therefore, as day light appeared, we filled our
_soofroos_ (skins) and calabashes at the pool, and set out for Tallika,
the first town in Bondou, which we reached about eleven o'clock in the
forenoon, (the 13th of December.) I cannot, however, take leave of
Woolli, without observing that I was every where well received by the
natives; and that the fatigues of the day were generally alleviated by a
hearty welcome at night; and although the African mode of living was at
first unpleasant to me, yet I found, at length, that custom surmounted
trifling inconveniences, and made every thing palatable and easy.
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