We departed from Deena towards Benowm, and about nine o'clock
came to a Korree, whence the Moors were preparing
To depart to the
southward on account of the scarcity of water; here we filled our
soofroo, and continued our journey over a hot sandy country, covered with
small stunted shrubs, until about one o'clock, when the heat of the sun
obliged us to stop. But our water being expended, we could not prudently
remain longer than a few minutes to collect a little gum, which is an
excellent succedaneum for water; as it keeps the mouth moist, and allays,
for a time, the pain in the throat.
About five o'clock we came in sight of Benowm, the residence of Ali. It
presented to the eye a great number of dirty looking tents, scattered
without order, over a large space of ground; and among the tents appeared
large herds of camels, cattle, and goats. We reached the skirts of the
camp, a little before sunset, and, with much entreaty, procured a little
water. My arrival was no sooner observed, than the people who drew water
at the wells threw down their buckets; those in the tents mounted their
horses, and men, women, and children, came running or galloping towards
me. I soon found myself surrounded by such a crowd, that I could scarcely
move; one pulled my clothes, another took off my hat, a third stopped me
to examine my waistcoat buttons, and a fourth called out, _la illah el
allah Mahomet rasowl allahi_,[10] and signified, in a threatening manner,
that I must repeat those words. We reached at length the king's tent,
where we found a great number of people, men and women, assembled. Ali
was sitting upon a black leather cushion, clipping a few hairs from his
upper lip; a female attendant holding up a looking-glass before him. He
appeared to be an old man, of the Arab cast, with a long white beard; and
he had a sullen and indignant aspect. He surveyed me with attention, and
inquired of the Moors if I could speak Arabic: being answered in the
negative, he appeared much surprised, and continued silent. The
surrounding attendants, and especially the ladies, were abundantly more
inquisitive: they asked a thousand questions, inspected every part of my
apparel, searched my pockets, and obliged me to unbutton my waistcoat,
and display the whiteness of my skin: they even counted my toes and
fingers, as if they doubted whether I was in truth a human being. In a
little time the priest announced evening prayers; but before the people
departed, the Moor, who had acted as interpreter, informed me that Ali
was about to present me with something to eat; and looking round, I
observed some boys bringing a wild hog, which they tied to one of the
tent strings, and Ali made signs to me to kill and dress it for supper.
Though I was very hungry, I did not think it prudent to eat any part of
an animal so much detested by the Moors, and therefore told him that I
never eat such food. They then untied the hog in hopes that it would run
immediately at me; for they believe that a great enmity subsists between
hogs and Christians; but in this they were disappointed, for the animal
no sooner regained his liberty, than he began to attack indiscriminately
every person that came in his way, and at last took shelter under the
couch upon which the king was sitting. The assembly being thus dissolved,
I was conducted to the tent of Ali's chief slave, but was not permitted
to enter, nor allowed to touch any thing belonging to it. I requested
something to eat, and a little boiled corn, with salt and water, was at
length sent me in a wooden bowl; and a mat was spread upon the sand
before the tent, on which I passed the night, surrounded by the curious
multitude.
[10] See page 87 [Footnote 9. Transcriber.].
At sunrise, Ali, with a few attendants, came on horseback to visit me,
and signified that he had provided a hut for me, where I would be
sheltered from the sun. I was accordingly conducted thither, and found
the hut comparatively cool and pleasant. It was constructed of corn
stalks set up on end, in the form of a square, with a flat roof of the
same materials, supported by forked sticks; to one of which was tied the
wild hog before mentioned. This animal had certainly been placed there by
Ali's order, out of derision to a Christian; and I found it a very
disagreeable inmate, as it drew together a number of boys, who amused
themselves by beating it with sticks, until they had so irritated the hog
that it ran and bit at every person within its reach.
I was no sooner seated in this my new habitation, than the Moors
assembled in crowds to behold me; but I found it rather a troublesome
levee, for I was obliged to take off one of my stockings, and show them
my foot, and even to take off my jacket and waistcoat, to show them how
my clothes were put on and off: they were much delighted with the curious
contrivance of buttons. All this was to be repeated to every succeeding
visitor; for such as had already seen these wonders insisted on their
friends seeing the same; and in this manner I was employed, dressing and
undressing, buttoning and unbuttoning, from noon to night. About eight
o'clock, Ali sent me for supper some kouskous and salt and water, which
was very acceptable, being the only victuals I had tasted since morning.
I observed that, in the night, the Moors kept regular watch, and
frequently looked into the hut, to see if I was asleep, and if it was
quite dark, they would light a wisp of grass. About two o'clock in the
morning, a Moor entered the hut, probably with a view to steal something,
or perhaps to murder me:
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