Delightful
As The Sound Of The Human Voice Was To Me, I Resolved Once More To Strike
Into The Woods,
And rather run the risk of perishing of hunger, than
trust myself again in their hands; but still being thirsty,
And dreading
the approach of the burning day, I thought it prudent to search for the
wells, which I expected to find at no great distance. In this pursuit, I
inadvertently approached so near to one of the tents as to be perceived
by a woman, who immediately screamed out. Two people came running to her
assistance from some of the neighbouring tents, and passed so very near
to me that I thought I was discovered, and hastened again into the woods.
About a mile from this place, I heard a loud and confused noise somewhere
to the right of my course, and in a short time was happy to find it was
the croaking of frogs, which was heavenly music to my ears. I followed
the sound, and at daybreak arrived at some shallow muddy pools, so full
of frogs, that it was difficult to discern the water. The noise they made
frightened my horse, and I was obliged to keep them quiet, by beating the
water with a branch until he had drank. Having here quenched my thirst, I
ascended a tree, and the morning being calm, I soon perceived the smoke
of the watering-place which I had passed in the night; and observed
another pillar of smoke east-south-east, distant 12 or 14 miles. Towards
this I directed my route, and reached the cultivated ground a little
before eleven o'clock where, seeing a number of Negroes at work planting
corn, I inquired the name of the town; and was informed that it was a
Foulah village, belonging to Ali, called Shrilla. I had now some doubts
about entering it; but my horse being very much fatigued, and the day
growing hot, not to mention the pangs of hunger which began to assail me,
I resolved to venture, and accordingly rode up to the Dooty's house,
where I was unfortunately denied admittance, and could not obtain even a
handful of corn either for myself or horse. Turning from this
inhospitable door, I rode slowly out of the town, and perceiving some low
scattered huts without the walls, I directed my route towards them;
knowing that in Africa, as well as in Europe, hospitality does not always
prefer the highest dwellings. At the door of one of these huts, an old
motherly-looking woman sat, spinning cotton; I made signs to her that I
was hungry, and inquired if she had any victuals with her in the hut. She
immediately laid down her distaff, and desired me, in Arabic, to come in.
When I had seated myself upon the floor, she set before me a dish of
kouskous, that had been left the preceding night, of which I made a
tolerable meal; and in return for this kindness I gave her one of my
pocket-handkerchiefs, begging at the same time a little corn for my
horse, which she readily brought me.
Overcome with joy at so unexpected a deliverance, I lifted up my eyes to
heaven, and whilst my heart swelled with gratitude, I returned thanks to
that gracious and bountiful Being, whose power had supported me under so
many dangers, and had now spread for me a table in the Wilderness.
Whilst my horse was feeding the people began to assemble, and one of them
whispered something to my hostess, which very much excited her surprise.
Though I was not well acquainted with the Foulah language, I soon
discovered that some of the men wished to apprehend and carry me back to
Ali, in hopes, I suppose, of receiving a reward. I therefore tied up the
corn; and lest any one should suspect I had ran away from the Moors, I
took a northerly direction, and went cheerfully along, driving my horse
before me, followed by all the boys and girls of the town. When I had
travelled about two miles, and got quit of all my troublesome attendants,
I struck again into the woods, and took shelter under a large tree, where
I found it necessary to rest myself; a bundle of twigs serving me for a
bed, and my saddle for a pillow.
I was awakened about two o'clock by three Foulahs, who, taking me for a
Moor, pointed to the sun, and told me it was time to pray. Without
entering into conversation with them, I saddled my horse and continued my
journey. I travelled over a level, but more fertile country, than I had
seen for some time, until sunset, when, coming to a path that took a
southerly direction, I followed it until midnight, at which time I
arrived at a small pool of rain water, and the wood being open, I
determined to rest by it for the night. Having given my horse the
remainder of the corn, I made my bed as formerly; but the musketoes and
flies from the pool prevented sleep for some time, and I was twice
disturbed in the night by wild beasts, which came very near, and whose
howlings kept the horse in continual terror.
July 4th. At daybreak I pursued my course through woods as formerly; saw
numbers of antelopes, wild hogs, and ostriches; but the soil was more
hilly, and not so fertile as I had found it the preceding day. About
eleven o'clock I ascended an eminence, where I climbed a tree, and
discovered, at about eight miles distance, an open part of the country,
with several red spots which I concluded were cultivated land; and
directing my course that way, came to the precincts of a watering-place,
about one o'clock. From the appearance of the place, I judged it to
belong to the Foulahs, and was hopeful that I should meet a better
reception than I had experienced at Shrilla.
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