I Had Never Before Heard
Of So Simple A Mode Of Education, But Instantly Complied With The
Request; And My
Landlord's thirst for learning was such, that, with
cutting and pulling, he cropped one side of my head pretty closely;
And
would have done the same with the other, had I not signified my
disapprobation by putting on my hat, and assuring him, that I wished to
reserve some of this precious merchandize for a future occasion.
I reached a small town called Wassiboo, about twelve o'clock, where I was
obliged to stop until an opportunity should offer of procuring a guide to
Satile, which is distant a very long day's journey, through woods without
any beaten path. I accordingly took up my residence at the Dooty's house,
where I staid four days; during which time I amused myself by going to
the fields with the family to plant corn. Cultivation is carried on here
on a very extensive scale; and, as the natives themselves express it,
"hunger is never known." In cultivating the soil, the men and women work
together. They use a large sharp hoe, much superior to that used in
Gambia; but they are obliged, for fear of the Moors, to carry their arms
with them to the field. The master, with the handle of his spear, marks
the field into regular plats, one of which is assigned to every three
slaves.
On the evening of the 11th, eight of the fugitive Kaartans arrived at
Wassiboo. - They had found it impossible to live under the tyrannical
government of the Moors, and were now going to transfer their allegiance
to the King of Bambarra. They offered to take me along with them as far
as Satile; and I accepted the offer.
July 12th. At daybreak we set out, and travelled with uncommon expedition
until sunset: we stopped only twice in the course of the day; once at a
watering-place in the woods, and another time at the ruins of a town
formerly belonging to Daisy, called _Illa Compe_, (the corn town). When
we arrived in the neighbourhood of Satile, the people who were employed
in the corn fields, seeing so many horsemen, took us for a party of
Moors, and ran screaming away from us. The whole town was instantly
alarmed, the slaves were seen, in every direction, driving the cattle and
horses towards the town. It was in vain that one of our company galloped
up to undeceive them: it only frightened them the more; and when we
arrived at the town, we found the gates shut, and the people all under
arms. After a long parley, we were permitted to enter and, as there was
every appearance of a heavy tornado, the Dooty allowed us to sleep in his
saloon, and gave us each a bullock's hide for a bed.
July 13th. Early in the morning we again set forward. The roads were wet
and slippery, but the country was very beautiful, abounding with
rivulets, which were increased by the rain into rapid streams. About ten
o'clock we came to the ruins of a village, which had been destroyed by
war about six months before; and in order to prevent any town from being
built there in future, the large Bentang tree, under which the natives
spent the day, had been burnt down; the wells filled up; and every thing
that could make the spot desirable completely destroyed.
About noon, my horse was so much fatigued that I could not keep up with
my companions; I therefore dismounted, and desired them to ride on,
telling them, that I would follow as soon as my horse had rested a
little. But I found them unwilling to leave me; the lions, they said,
were very numerous in those parts, and though they might not so readily
attack a body of people, they would soon find out an individual. It was
therefore agreed that one of the company should stay with me, to assist
in driving my horse, while the others passed on to Galloo, to procure
lodgings, and collect grass for the horses before night. Accompanied by
this worthy Negro, I drove my horse before me until about four o'clock,
when we came in sight of Galloo, a considerable town, standing in a
fertile and beautiful valley, surrounded with high rocks.
As my companions had thoughts of settling in this neighbourhood, they had
a fine sheep given them by the Dooty; and I was fortunate enough to
procure plenty of corn for my horse. Here they blow upon elephants' teeth
when they announce evening prayers, in the same manner as at Kemmoo.
Early next morning, (July 14th,) having first returned many thanks to our
landlord for his hospitality, while my fellow travellers offered up their
prayers that he might never want, we set forward, and about three o'clock
arrived at Moorja, a large town famous for its trade in salt, which the
Moors bring here in great quantities, to exchange for corn and cotton
cloth. As most of the people here are Mahomedans, it is not allowed to
the Kafirs to drink beer, which they call _Neo-dollo_ (corn spirit)
except in certain houses. In one of these I saw about twenty people
sitting round large vessels of this beer, with the greatest conviviality,
many of them in a state of intoxication. As corn is plentiful, the
inhabitants are very liberal to strangers. I believe we had as much corn
and milk sent us by different people as would have been sufficient for
three times our number; and though we remained here two days, we
experienced no diminution of their hospitality.
On the morning of the 16th we again set forward, accompanied by a coffle
of fourteen asses, loaded with salt, bound for Sansanding. The road was
particularly romantic, between two rocky hills; but the Moors sometimes
lie in wait here to plunder strangers. As soon as we had reached the open
country, the master of the salt coffle thanked us for having staid with
him so long, and now desired us to ride on.
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