WITH A MEMOIR.
1841
CHAPTER I.
LONDON TO PARIS.
Departure from London - A French Steam-vessel - Unfavourable
Weather - Arrival at Havre - Difficulties at the
Custom-house - Description of Havre - Embarkation on the Steamer for
Rouen - Appearance of the Country - Inclemency of the Weather - Arrival
at Rouen - Description of Rouen - Departure by the Boat for
Paris - Scenes and Traditions on the Banks of the Seine - Journey by the
Railroad to Paris - The Douaniers - Observations on the Journey up the
Seine
* * * * *
CHAPTER II.
PARIS TO MARSEILLES.
Description of Paris - Departure by the Diligence - The Country - The
Vineyards - Hotels and fare - Arrival at Lyons - Description of
the City - Departure in the Steam-boat for Arles - Descent of the
Rhone - Beauty and Variety of the Scenery - Confusion on disembarking at
Beaucaire - A Passenger Drowned - Arrival at Arles - Description of the
Town - Embarkation in the Steamer for Marseilles - Entrance into the
Mediterranean - Picturesque Approach to Marseilles - Arrival in the
Harbour - Description of Marseilles - Observations upon the Journey
through France by Ladies
* * * * *
CHAPTER III.
MARSEILLES TO ALEXANDRIA.
Vexations at the Custom-house - Embarkation on the Malta
Steamer - Difficulties of exit from the Harbour - Storm - Disagreeable
Motion of the Steam-vessel - Passengers - Arrival at Malta - Description
of the City - Vehicles - Dress of the Maltese Women - State of
Society - Church of St. John - The Palace - The Cemetery of the Capuchin
Convent - Intolerance of the Roman Catholic Priesthood - Shops,
Cafes, and Hotels - Manufactures and Products of Malta - Heat of
the Island - Embarkation on board an English Government
Steamer - Passengers - A young Egyptian - Arrival at Alexandria - Turkish
and Egyptian Fleets - Aspect of the City from the Sea - Landing
* * * * *
CHAPTER IV.
ALEXANDRIA TO BOULAK.
Description of Alexandria - Hotels - Houses - Streets - Frank
Shops - Cafes - Equipages - Arrangements for the Journey to
Suez - Pompey's Pillar - Turkish and Arab Burial-grounds - Preparations
for the Journey to Cairo - Embarkation on the Canal - Bad accommodation
in the Boat - Banks of the Canal - Varieties of Costume in
Egypt - Collision during the night - Atfee - Its wretched appearance - The
Pasha - Exchange of Boats - Disappointment at the Nile - Scarcity of
Trees - Manners of the Boatmen - Aspect of the Villages - The Marquess
of Waterford - The Mughreebee Magician - First sight of the
Pyramids - Arrival at Boulak, the Port of Cairo
* * * * *
CHAPTER V.
CAIRO.
Arrival at Boulak - Description of the place - Moolid, or Religious
Fair - Surprise of the People - The Hotel at Cairo - Description of
the City - The Citadel - View from thence - The City - The
Shops - The Streets - The interior of the Pasha's
Palace - Pictures - Furniture - Military Band - Affray between a Man and
Woman - Indifference of the Police to Street Broils - Natives beaten
by Englishmen - Visit to an English Antiquary - By-ways of
the City - Interior of the Houses - Nubian
Slave-market - Gypsies - Preparation for Departure to Suez - Mode of
driving in the Streets of Cairo - Leave the City - The Changes in
travelling in Egypt - Attractions of Cairo
* * * * *
CHAPTER VI.
THE DESERT.
Equipage for crossing the Desert - Donkey-chairs - Sense of calmness and
tranquillity on entering the Desert - Nothing dismal in its
aspect - The Travellers' Bungalow - Inconvenient construction of these
buildings - Kafila of the Governor of Jiddah and his Lady - Their
Equipage - Bedouins - Impositions practised on Travellers - Desert
Travelling not disagreeable - Report of the sailing of the
Steamer - Frequency of false reports - Ease with which an infant of
the party bore the journey - A wheeled carriage crossing the
Desert - Parties of Passengers from Suez encountered - One of Mr. Hill's
tilted Caravans - Difficulty of procuring water at the Travellers'
Bungalow - A night in the Desert - Magnificent sunrise - First sight
of the Red Sea and the Town of Suez - Miserable appearance of the
latter - Engagement of a Passage to Bombay
* * * * *
CHAPTER VII.
SUEZ TO ADEN.
Travellers assembling at Suez - Remarks on the Pasha's
Government - Embarkation on the Steamer - Miserable accommodation in the
Berenice, and awkwardness of the attendants - Government Ships not
adapted to carry Passengers - Cause of the miserable state of the Red
Sea Steamers - Shores of the Red Sea - Arrival at Mocha - Its appearance
from the Sea - Arrival at Aden - Its wild and rocky appearance on
landing - Cape Aden - The Town - Singular appearance of the Houses - The
Garrison expecting an attack by the Arabs - Discontent of the
Servants of Europeans at Aden - Complaints by Anglo-Indians against
Servants - Causes - Little to interest Europeans in Aden
* * * * *
CHAPTER VIII.
ADEN.
Commanding situation of Aden - Its importance in former times - But few
remains of its grandeur - Its facilities as a retreat for the piratical
hordes of the Desert - The loss of its trade followed by reduction
of the population - Speculations as to the probability of ultimately
resisting the Arabs - Exaggerated notions entertained by the Shiekhs of
the wealth of the British - Aden a free Port would be the Queen of the
adjacent Seas - Its advantages over Mocha - The Inhabitants of Aden - The
Jews - The Banians - The Soomalees - The Arabs - Hopes of the prosperity
of Aden - Goods in request there - Exports - Re-embarkation on the
Steamer - Want of attention - Makallah - Description of the place - Its
products - The Gazelle - Traveller in Abyssinia - Adventurous English
Travellers - Attractions of the Arab life - Arrival at Bombay
* * * * *
CHAPTER IX.
BOMBAY.
Contrast between landing at Bombay and at Calcutta - First feelings
those of disappointment - Aspect of the place improves - Scenery of the
Island magnificent, abounding with fine Landscapes - Luxuriance and
elegance of the Palms - Profusion and contrast of the Trees - Multitude
of large Houses in Gardens - Squalid, dirty appearance of the
Native Crowd - Costume of the Natives - Inferior to the Costume of
Bengal - Countenances not so handsome - The Drive to the Fort - The
Burrah Bazaar - Parsee Houses - "God-shops" of the Jains - General use
of Chairs amongst the Natives - Interior of the Native Houses - The
Sailors' Home - The Native Town - Improvements - The Streets animated
and picturesque - Number of Vehicles - The Native Females - The Parsee
Women - The Esplanade - Tents and Bungalows - The Fort - The China
Bazaar - A Native School - Visit to a Parsee Warehouse - Real ornamental
China-ware - Apprehension of Fire in the Fort - Houses fired by
Rats - Illumination of Native Houses - Discordant noise of Native
Magic - The great variety of Religions in Bombay productive of
lamp-lighting and drumming
* * * * *
CHAPTER X.
