Nor Was The Cleanliness That Prevailed, In Despite Of All The
Obstacles Opposed To It, Less Worthy Of Praise:
The servants were
civil and attentive, and the prices charged extremely moderate.
All
the guests of the hotel of course formed one family, assembling daily
at meals, after the continental fashion. The dining-room was spacious,
and divided into two portions; the one ascended by a step was
surrounded by divans, after the Egyptian fashion, and here were books
to be found containing useful and entertaining knowledge. A few stray
numbers of the Asiatic Journal, half a dozen volumes of standard
novels, files of the Bombay Times, and works illustrative of ancient
and modern Egypt, served to beguile the time of those who had
nothing else to do. Meanwhile, travellers came dropping in, and the
caravanserai was soon crowded.
CHAPTER VII.
* * * * *
SUEZ TO ADEN.
* * * * *
Travellers assembling at Suez - Remarks on the Pasha's
Government - Embarkation on the Steamer - Miserable accommodation in the
Berenice, and awkwardness of the attendants - Government Ships not
adapted to carry Passengers - Cause of the miserable state of the Red
Sea Steamers - Shores of the Red Sea - Arrival at Mocha - Its appearance
from the Sea - Arrival at Aden - Its wild and rocky appearance on
landing - Cape Aden - The Town - Singular appearance of the Houses - The
Garrison expecting an attack by the Arabs - Discontent of the
Servants of Europeans at Aden - Complaints by Anglo-Indians against
Servants - Causes - Little to interest Europeans in Aden.
Amongst the travellers who came dropping in at the hotel, was
the Portuguese governor of Goa and his suite, consisting of four
gentlemen, the private and public secretaries, an aide-de-camp, and
the fourth holding some other appointment. They came by the French
steamer, which had left Marseilles on the day of our departure. The
governor, a fine old soldier, and a perfect gentleman, proved a
great acquisition to our party; and knowing the state of Goa, and the
disappointment he would in all probability sustain upon arriving at
the seat of his government in the present low condition to which it
is reduced, we could not help feeling much interested in his welfare.
This gentleman, who inherited the title of baron, and was moreover
an old general officer, had mixed in the very best society, and was
evidently well acquainted with courts and camps; he spoke several
languages, and in the course of his travels had visited England. His
retinue were quiet gentlemanly men, and the young aide-de-camp, in
particular, made himself very agreeable.
There were two other travellers of some note at Suez, who had put up
at Hill's Hotel; one, an American gentleman, who had come across the
desert for the purpose of looking at the Red Sea. I saw him mounted
upon a donkey, and gazing as he stood upon the shore at the bright but
narrow channel, so interesting to all who have read the history of the
Israelites, with reverential feelings. I felt a strong inclination
to accost him; but refrained, being unwilling to disturb his reveries
with what he might have thought an impertinent interruption.
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