Above the falls the river was very rough, and in the next half or
three-quarters of a mile we made three more portages, and landed a
little before noon at a high, rocky point on the south shore, to
find ourselves at the edge of the hill country again. Here the
river was crowded between high, rocky hills where it flowed too
swift and deep for either poles or paddles. We could keep to it no
farther, and so made camp, for now some scouting for a portage
route would be necessary.
While at dinner that day a thundershower passed. The thunderstorms
of Labrador seem very mild and gentle as compared with those we are
accustomed to. Later it settled to steady rain. Job went
scouting, and the others lay in the tent most of the afternoon, Joe
and Gilbert not feeling very well. Trouble - change of diet with a
little too much of it. Job on his return in the evening reported
the river bending away to the southwest a few miles farther on, and
impassable as far as he could see. There would be a long portage
west and south, but the country was not very rough, and a number of
small lakes would give some paddling.
The following day all the men, except Job, were ill, and camp was
not moved till Thursday morning. When evening came, the outfit had
been taken forward three and a half miles. The three small lakes
we had passed had given about one mile of paddling, and at night
our camp was made at the edge of the fourth, a tiny still water
pond.
The flies were that day worse than I had ever seen them. My veil
proving an insufficient protection, I made myself a mask from one
of the little waterproof bags, cutting a large hole in front
through which I could see and breathe, and sewing over it several
thicknesses of black veiling. There were as well two holes cut at
the back of the ears for ventilation-these also being covered with
the veiling. Pulling it over my head I tied it tight round my
neck. It was most fearful and hideous to look upon, but it kept
out the flies. The men insisted that I should have to take it off
when we came to the Nascaupees else they would certainly shoot me.
The flies were in clouds that day, and even their tapping on the
outside of my mask made me shudder. I ached as I watched the men
carrying their heavy loads, for it was very, very hot, and they
wore no protection whatever. How they endured so uncomplainingly I
could not understand, and they rarely wore their veils. It was an
unspeakable relief when the clear, cool night closed in, and for a
time put an end to the torture.
CHAPTER VIII
SCARING THE GUIDES
I awoke on Friday at 2.30 A.M. The morning was clear as diamonds,
and from the open front of my tent I could see the eastern sky.
