We had to
oppose a violent gale and frequent snowstorms through the day, which
unseasonable weather caused the temperature to descend below the
freezing-point this evening. The situation of our encampment being bleak,
and our fuel stunted green willows, we passed a very cold and
uncomfortable night.
June 18.
Though the breeze was moderate this morning the air was piercingly keen.
When on the point of starting we perceived Mr. Wentzel's party coming,
and awaited his arrival to learn whether the canoes had received any
injury during the severe weather of yesterday. Finding they had not we
proceeded to get upon the ice on the lake, which could not be effected
without walking up to the waist in water for some distance from its
borders. We had not the command of our feet in this situation and the men
fell often; poor Junius broke through the ice with his heavy burden on
his back but fortunately was not hurt.
This lake is extensive and large arms branch from its main course in
different directions. At these parts we crossed the projecting points of
land and on each occasion had to wade as before, which so wearied
everyone that we rejoiced when we reached its north side and encamped,
though our resting-place was a bare rock. We had the happiness of finding
Fontano at this place. The poor fellow had passed the three preceding
days without tasting food and was exhausted by anxiety and hunger. His
sufferings were considered to have been a sufficient punishment for his
imprudent conduct in separating from us, and I only admonished him to be
more cautious in future.
Having received information that the hunters had killed a deer we sent
three men to fetch the meat, which was distributed between our party and
the canoe-men who had been encamped near to us. The thermometer at three
P.M. was 46 degrees, at nine 34 degrees.
We commenced the following day by crossing a lake about four miles in
length and then passed over a succession of rugged hills for nearly the
same distance. The men, being anxious to reach some pine-trees which they
had seen on their former journey, walked at a quick pace though they were
suffering from swelled legs and rheumatic pains; we could not however
attain the desired point and therefore encamped on the declivity of a
hill which sheltered us from the wind, and used the reindeer moss for
fuel, which afforded us more warmth than we expected. Several patches of
snow were yet remaining on the surrounding hills. The thermometer varied
today between 55 and 45 degrees.
On the 20th of June we began our march by crossing a small lake, not
without much risk as the surface of the ice was covered with water to the
depth of two feet and there were many holes into which we slipped in
spite of our efforts to avoid them. A few of the men, being fearful of
attempting the traverse with their heavy loads, walked round the eastern
end of the lake. The parties met on the sandy ridge which separates the
streams that fall into Winter Lake from those that flow to the northward;
and here we killed three deer. Near the base of this ridge we crossed a
small but rapid stream in which there is a remarkable cascade of about
fifty feet. Some Indians joined us here and gave information respecting
the situation of Dr. Richardson's tent, which our hunters considered was
sufficient for our guidance, and therefore proceeded as quickly as they
could. We marched a few miles farther in the evening and encamped among
some pines; but the comfort of a good fire did not compensate for the
torment we suffered from the host of mosquitoes at this spot. The
temperature was 52 degrees.
We set off next morning at a very early hour. The men took the course of
Point Lake that they might use their sledges, but the officers pursued
the nearest route by land to Dr. Richardson's tent, which we reached at
eleven A.M. It was on the western side of an arm of the lake and near the
part through which the Copper-Mine River runs. Our men arrived soon after
us and in the evening Mr. Wentzel and his party, with the canoes in
excellent condition. They were much jaded by their fatiguing journey and
several were lame from swellings of the lower extremities. The ice on the
lake was still six or seven feet thick and there was no appearance of its
decay except near the edges and, as it was evident that, by remaining
here until it should be removed, we might lose every prospect of success
in our undertaking, I determined on dragging our stores along its surface
until we should come to a part of the river where we could embark, and
directions were given this evening for each man to prepare a train for
the conveyance of his portion of the stores. I may remark here, as a
proof of the strong effect of radiation from the earth in melting the
ice, that the largest holes in the ice were always formed at the base of
the high and steep cliffs which abound on the borders of this lake.
We found Akaitcho and the hunters encamped here but their families and
the rest of the tribe had gone off two days before to the Bethseeto, a
large lake to the northward where they intended passing the summer.
Long-legs and Keskarrah had departed to desire the Hook to collect as
much meat as he could against our arrival at his lodge. We were extremely
distressed to learn from Dr. Richardson that Akaitcho and his party had
expended all the ammunition they had received at Fort Enterprise without
having contributed any supply of provision.
