We continued our course
the whole day along the river, which is about four hundred yards wide,
has some islands, and is confined between low land extending from the
bases of the mountains on each side. We put up at the end of thirteen
miles and were then joined by a Chipewyan who came, as we supposed, to
serve as our guide to Pierre au Calumet but, as none of the party could
communicate with our new friend otherwise than by signs, we waited
patiently until the morning to see what he intended to do. The wind blew
a gale during the night and the snow fell heavily. The next day our guide
led us to the Pembina River which comes from the southward where we found
traces of Indians who appeared to have quitted this station the day
before; we had therefore the benefit of a good track which our dogs much
required as they were greatly fatigued, having dragged their loads
through very deep snow for the last two days. A moose-deer crossed the
river just before the party: this animal is plentiful in the vicinity. We
encamped in a pleasant well-sheltered place, having travelled fourteen
miles.
A short distance on the following morning brought us to some Indian
lodges which belonged to an old Chipewyan chief named the Sun and his
family consisting of five hunters, their wives and children. They were
delighted to see us and, when the object of our expedition had been
explained to them, expressed themselves much interested in our progress;
but they could not give a particle of information respecting the
countries beyond the Athabasca Lake. We smoked with them and gave each
person a glass of mixed spirits and some tobacco. A Canadian servant of
the North-West Company who was residing with them informed us that this
family had lost numerous relatives, and that the destruction of property
which had been made after their deaths was the only cause for the
pitiable condition in which we saw them as the whole family were
industrious hunters and therefore were usually better provided with
clothes and other useful articles than most of the Indians. We purchased
from them a pair of snowshoes in exchange for some ammunition. The
Chipewyans are celebrated for making them good and easy to walk in; we
saw some here upwards of six feet long and three broad. With these
unwieldy clogs an active hunter, in the spring when there is a crust on
the surface of the snow, will run down a moose or red-deer.
We made very slow progress after leaving this party on account of the
deep snow, but continued along the river until we reached its junction
with the Athabasca or Elk River. We obtained observations on an island a
little below the Forks which gave longitude 111 degrees 8 minutes 42
seconds West, variation 24 degrees 18 minutes 20 seconds East. Very
little wood was seen during this day's march. The western shore near the
Forks is destitute of trees; it is composed of lofty perpendicular cliffs
which were now covered with snow. The eastern shore supports a few pines.
March 18.
Soon after our departure from the encampment we met two men from the
establishment at Pierre au Calumet, who gave us correct information of
its situation and distance. Having the benefit of their track we marched
at a tolerably quick pace and made twenty-two miles in the course of the
day though the weather was very disagreeable for travelling, being stormy
with constant snow. We kept along the river the whole time: its breadth
is about two miles. The islands appear better furnished with wood than
its banks, the summits of which are almost bare. Soon after we had
encamped our Indian guide rejoined us; he had remained behind the day
before without consulting us to accompany a friend on a hunting
excursion. On his return he made no endeavour to explain the reason of
his absence but sat down coolly and began to prepare his supper. This
behaviour made us sensible that little dependence is to be placed on the
continuance of an Indian guide when his inclination leads him away.
Early the next morning we sent forward the Indian and a Canadian to
apprise the gentleman in charge of Pierre au Calumet of our approach; and
after breakfast the rest of the party proceeded along the river for that
station which we reached in the afternoon. The senior partner of the
North-West Company in the Athabasca department, Mr. John Stuart, was in
charge of the post. Though he was quite ignorant until this morning of
our being in the country we found him prepared to receive us with great
kindness and ready to afford every information and assistance agreeably
to the desire conveyed in Mr. Simon McGillivray's circular letter. This
gentleman had twice traversed this continent and reached the Pacific by
the Columbia River; he was therefore fully conversant with the different
modes of travelling and with the obstacles that may be expected in
passing through unfrequented countries. His suggestions and advice were
consequently very valuable to us but, not having been to the northward of
the Great Slave Lake, he had no knowledge of that line of country except
what he had gained from the reports of Indians. He was of opinion however
that positive information on which our course of proceedings might safely
be determined could be procured from the Indians that frequent the north
side of the lake when they came to the forts in the spring. He
recommended my writing to the partner in charge of that department,
requesting him to collect all the intelligence he could and to provide
guides and hunters from the tribe best acquainted with the country
through which we proposed to travel.
