In A Ride From Our Camp To St. Hilarion I Carefully Remarked Throughout
The Extremely Rugged Nature Of The Route That No Plot, However Minute,
Had Been Neglected.
In one rocky nook buried among the cliffs was a
little cottage, with hanging gardens all terraced by exceedingly high
walls, yet affording the smallest superficial area for cultivation.
This
is discernible with a powerful telescope from the base of the mountains,
although to the naked eye it appears like a cluster of barren rocks,
tinged with the green of fruit-trees growing from the clefts. If such
labour had been expended to produce a picturesque effect the object
might be appreciated, but that it should be profitable is beyond belief.
The summit of St. Hilarion is 3340 feet above the sea, from which, in a
direct line, it is not three miles distant. The cliffs are quite
perpendicular in some places for several hundred feet, and the greatest
care has been taken to perch the towers and walls upon the extreme
verge. Although from the base of the mountains at Kyrenia the castle
appears to occupy an impregnable position, it can be easily approached
by one of those rough paths in the rear which can be scrambled over by
the Cyprian mules. I am afraid that my willing animal grumbled somewhat
at my weight, as it was obliged to halt for breath seven or eight times
before we reached a secluded little dell among the mountain tops, from
which the path ascended by steep zigzags, directly through the entrance
of the old fortification. This narrow dell, hidden among the surrounding
crags about 2800 feet above the sea, was entirely cropped with barley,
and the people who owned the plot resided in a cave that had been
arranged for a habitation for themselves and animals.
On the ridge before we descended into this vale the view was
magnificent, as two lofty crags formed a natural frame for the picture
within. Between these rugged peaks of silvery grey limestone, tinted by
ferruginous rocks with various shades of red and brown, we looked down a
precipice beneath our feet upon the blue sea, the snow-capped mountains
of Caramania in the distance, and the rich border of our own shores
covered with green trees, gardens, fields, and clustering villages: in
the centre of which was the fort and harbour of Kyrenia. I could just
distinguish our white tents among the caroub-trees far beneath. To
complete this superb landscape there should have been a few sails upon
the sea; but all was blue and barren, without signs of life. The castle
of St. Hilarion stood before us on the left as we faced the sea, and the
towers occupied the peaks within less than a quarter of a mile of our
position. Continuing along the narrow vale, a mountain-top upon our
left-hand, which sloped to the path upon which we rode, appeared
slightly higher than the extreme summit of the castle peak; the sides of
this steep slope were covered with dwarf cypress and occasional young
pines, and it was clear that St. Hilarion would be commanded by a
battery upon these heights, or even by the fire of modern rifles.
Ascending the zigzag path among blocks of fallen stone, which had rolled
from the partially dismantled walls, we entered the gateway, and at once
perceived the great extent of the old fortress. The entire mountain-top
is encircled by a high wall, flanked at intervals by towers, and
crenellated for archers or cross-bowmen. Although the opposite mountain
would by artillery fire completely command the inner and lower portion
of the works, which we had now entered, the distance would have been far
beyond the range of catapults or arrows at the time when the defences
were erected. The error appeared to have been in the great area of the
fortifications, which would have necessitated a garrison of at least
4000 men, entailing a large supply of provisions and of water. There was
no trace of a well throughout the works, but I observed the remains of
water-pipes in numerous directions, which appeared to have conducted the
rainfall into reservoirs. The nearest water was by the caves, occupied
by the peasants in the glen, about a quarter of a mile distant. Nothing
would have been easier than an investment, which would sooner or later
have reduced the garrison to starvation, as the precipices upon the
north, west, and east, which rendered the position impregnable from
those directions, at the same time prevented an exit, and effectually
barred all egress either for sorties or escape. The first court upon
entering the gateway comprised several acres, but there was no level
ground, and the natural slope of the mountain was inclosed by walls and
parapets upon all sides, until at convenient places the earth had been
scarped out for the erection of buildings, which had either been
barracks or magazines. These were all of stone and hard cement, and were
now used as stables for various animals by the few peasants of this wild
neighbourhood. Passing through galleries, from which an occasional
window showed a deep chasm of many hundred feet beneath, and continuing
until we entered a tower which terminated the passage upon a
perpendicular peak that enfiladed the outer line of defence, and at the
same time from its great height commanded the main approach, we
descended a rude flight of steps, and presently entered a grand hall
supported upon numerous arches which appeared to connect two peaks of
the mountain. Descending from this solid work, we entered upon a plot of
grass which sloped towards a precipice of rock that completely closed
this side of the fortress. Several cypress-trees grew among the stones,
which assisted us in ascending from this steep and dangerous slope,
until by a passage which led into a quadrangular courtyard of grass we
emerged into an imposing portion of the ruin which commanded the west
face.
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