There Was Little Difference Between Lapithus And Karava.
A succession of
mountain streams nourished the higher grounds, and having fertilised the
gardens and plots of cereals, were subsequently led into the fields
below.
Lapithus has been celebrated from an ancient date in like manner with
Kythrea, owing to the unfailing supply of water from its
mountain-springs, and, under the Ptolemies, B.C. 295, it became one of
the four provinces into which Cyprus was divided. Lapithus, north;
Amathus, south; Salamis, east; Paphos (now Baffo), west.
On the following morning our muleteer Iiani, having indulged in
cigarettes and sleep, was not ready to start at the proper hour, neither
were the animals forth-coming. We accordingly started on foot and
threaded our way through paved lanes, which twisted and turned in
various directions according to the positions of the houses and
innumerable gardens. The people were very civil, and directed us in the
right direction, although evidently surprised at our journeying on foot,
which is most unusual even among the poorer classes. We walked for more
than a mile through the town: the air was fresh and enjoyable, the
thermometer was 53 degrees at 7 A.M. Streams of clear water gushed
through the lanes in many places, which had created the flourishing
aspect around. With such a picture of prosperity before us, due entirely
to the presence of never-failing streams, it seemed incredible that the
great central district of Messaria should be left to the chance of
seasons when the means of artificial irrigation lie close beneath the
surface.
Upon quitting Lapithus the country on the west was almost devoid of
trees, and we walked for four miles and a half before we could procure a
shade. At this distance we halted to await the mules beneath a clump of
three caroub-trees close to the road side. Beneath this group were
several masses of rock which appeared to have rolled at some remote
period from the mountain side, as blocks of all sizes strewed the ground
in every direction. I was at once struck with a beautiful block of dark
green marble, and upon examining the neighbourhood I discovered many
pieces of the same material, all of which had evidently fallen from the
mountain's side, thus proving that the parent mass would be found in
situ were the high cliffs investigated. The mules arrived, and I
directed attention of Iiani to the fact, in order that I might procure a
specimen by sending him to the spot upon a future occasion. We now
entered upon groves of caroub-trees, and the ground was covered with
blocks of limestone and of marbles. As we proceeded the shore became
exceedingly narrow, as the base of the steep mountain sprang from within
a short distance of the sea. The quantity and varieties of marbles
increased, the dark green was present in large blocks, and several
masses of bright rose-colour suggested that rare and valuable qualities
might be profitably worked and exported, as great facilities existed in
the presence of snug little coves within only a few yards, where in the
summer months native vessels of twenty or thirty tons might anchor in
security.
The country now became exceedingly wild and rugged. The sea was in many
places exactly below us as we skirted the cliffs and occasionally
crossed the beaches of narrow coves. The high mountain upon our
immediate left was the western terminus of the Carpas range, and
exhibited peculiar geological features, eruptive rocks having burst in
some places through the limestone and created great disturbance. The
route was exceedingly interesting and beautiful, rocks of every shade of
colour were mingled with bright green foliage, the sea was an emerald
green in the shallow coves, and dark blue within a few hundred paces of
the shore, while a brisk breeze curled the waves and tipped their crests
with a glistening white. The path at length turned to the left and led
through a gap that rounded the mountain base, and formed the extreme end
of the Jurassic limestone, which only exists in Cyprus in the peculiar
wall-like Carpasian range running from west to east upon the northern
coast.
We crossed a stream of water at the bottom of the gorge which winds
through the narrow glen that terminates the range; and ascending upon
the opposite side, we at once entered upon steep slopes composed of
marls interspersed with an exceedingly bright rose-coloured marble in
veins of about two feet thickness. This would probably develop
considerable blocks if quarried to a greater depth.
Continuing for about two miles along the glen, which was cultivated with
barley in all available localities, we several times crossed the stream
in its winding course, and my dogs hunted the steep myrtle-covered banks
in expectation of game; but nothing moved, and the croaking of numerous
frogs was the only sign of life. The glen now widened to a valley about
a mile and three-quarters in diameter, surrounded upon all sides by
heights, and we commenced one of the steepest ascents in Cyprus, up the
face of the slope about 1000 feet above the bottom. The zigzags were
upon a surface of white marl, which during wet weather would become as
slippery as soap, and be impassable for loaded animals. Many times our
mules were forced to halt and rest, but they were good and sure-footed
beasts, that could always be depended upon.
At length we gained the summit, which was a total change of scene.
Instead of descending upon the other side, as I had expected, we had
arrived at a plateau eight or nine miles in length from north to south,
and an invisible distance from east to west. The soil was a rich reddish
chocolate, forming a grateful contrast to the glaring white marls that
we had just quitted, and which composed the steep hills that surrounded
the lower basin. A growth of young pines and other evergreen shrubs
ornamented the surface, and at about a quarter of a mile from the summit
of the pass by which we had arrived we halted at a well of pure water
among a small grove of olive-trees.
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