The Golden Chersonese And The Way Thither By Isabella L. Bird

























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We were soon on a lovely shore under the cathedral-crowned hill, where
the velvety turf slopes down to the - Page 143
The Golden Chersonese And The Way Thither By Isabella L. Bird - Page 143 of 437 - First - Home

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We Were Soon On A Lovely Shore Under The Cathedral-Crowned Hill, Where The Velvety Turf Slopes Down To The

Sea under palms and trees whose trunks are one mass of ferns, brightened by that wonderful flowering tree variously known

As the "flamboyant" and the "flame of the forest" (Poinciana regia). Very still, hot, tropical, sleepy, and dreamy, Malacca looks, a town "out of the running," utterly antiquated, mainly un-English, a veritable Sleepy Hollow.

I. L. B.

LETTER IX

The Lieutenant-Governor of Malacca - A Charming Household - The Old Stadthaus - A Stately Habitation - An Endless Siesta - A Tropic Dream - Chinese Houses - Chinese Wealth and Ascendency - "Opium Farming" - The Malacca Jungle - Mohammedan Burial-Places - Malay Villages - Malay Characteristics - Costume and Ornament - Bigotry and Pilgrimage - The Malay Buffalo

STADTHAUS, MALACCA, January 21-23.

This must surely fade like a dream, this grand old Stadthaus, this old-world quiet, this quaint life; but when it fades I think I shall have a memory of having been "once in Elysium." Still, Elysium should have no mosquitoes, and they are nearly insupportable here; big spotted fellows, with a greed for blood, and a specially poisonous bite, taking the place at daylight of the retiring nocturnal host. The Chinese attendant is not careful, and lets mosquitoes into my net, and even one means a sleepless night. They are maddening.

I was introduced to my rooms, with their floors of red Dutch tiles, their blue walls, their white-washed rafters, their doors and windows consisting of German shutters only, their ancient beds of portentous height, and their generally silent and haunted look, and then went to tiffin with Mr. and Mrs. Biggs.

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