The Golden Chersonese And The Way Thither By Isabella L. Bird

























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LETTER XVIII

Province Wellesley - Water Buffaloes - A Glorious Night - Perak
Officials - A Dismal Swamp - Elephants at Home - An Epigrammatic
Description - Page 310
The Golden Chersonese And The Way Thither By Isabella L. Bird - Page 310 of 437 - First - Home

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LETTER XVIII

Province Wellesley - Water Buffaloes - A Glorious Night - Perak Officials - A "Dismal Swamp" - Elephants at Home - An Epigrammatic Description - The British Residency at Taipeng - Sultan Abdulla's Boys - A Chinese Mining Town - The "Armed Police" - An Alligator's Victim - Major Swinburne - A Larut Dinner Party - A Morning Hymn

BRITISH RESIDENCY, LARUT, February 11.

I left Mr. Justice Wood's yesterday, and his servant dispatched me from the jetty in a large boat with an attap awning and six Kling rowers, whose oars worked in nooses of rope. The narrow Strait was very calm, and the hot, fiery light of the tropic evening resting upon it, made it look like oil rather than water. In half an hour I landed on the other side in the prosperous Province Wellesley, under a row of magnificent casuarina trees, with gray, feathery foliage drooping over a beach of corals and, behind which are the solemn glades of cocoa-nut groves. On the little jetty a Sikh policeman waited for me; and presently Mrs. Isemonger, wife of the police magistrate of the Province, met me on the bright, green lawn studded with clumps of alamanda, which surrounds their lovely, palm-shaded bungalow.

Though the shadows were falling, Mr. Isemonger took me to see something of the back country in a trap with a fiery Sumatra pony. There are miles of cocoa-nut plantations belonging to Chinamen all along the coast, with the trees in straight lines forming long, broad avenues, which have a certain gloomy grandeur about them.

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