Unbeaten Tracks In Japan By Isabella L. Bird
























































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For long I looked in vain for Fujisan, and failed to see it, though
I heard ecstasies all over the - Page 5
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For Long I Looked In Vain For Fujisan, And Failed To See It, Though I Heard Ecstasies All Over The

Deck, till, accidentally looking heavenwards instead of earthwards, I saw far above any possibility of height, as one would have

Thought, a huge, truncated cone of pure snow, 13,080 feet above the sea, from which it sweeps upwards in a glorious curve, very wan, against a very pale blue sky, with its base and the intervening country veiled in a pale grey mist. {1} It was a wonderful vision, and shortly, as a vision, vanished. Except the cone of Tristan d'Acunha - also a cone of snow - I never saw a mountain rise in such lonely majesty, with nothing near or far to detract from its height and grandeur. No wonder that it is a sacred mountain, and so dear to the Japanese that their art is never weary of representing it. It was nearly fifty miles off when we first saw it.

The air and water were alike motionless, the mist was still and pale, grey clouds lay restfully on a bluish sky, the reflections of the white sails of the fishing-boats scarcely quivered; it was all so pale, wan, and ghastly, that the turbulence of crumpled foam which we left behind us, and our noisy, throbbing progress, seemed a boisterous intrusion upon sleeping Asia.

The gulf narrowed, the forest-crested hills, the terraced ravines, the picturesque grey villages, the quiet beach life, and the pale blue masses of the mountains of the interior, became more visible. Fuji retired into the mist in which he enfolds his grandeur for most of the summer; we passed Reception Bay, Perry Island, Webster Island, Cape Saratoga, and Mississippi Bay - American nomenclature which perpetuates the successes of American diplomacy - and not far from Treaty Point came upon a red lightship with the words "Treaty Point" in large letters upon her.

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