The Devil, We Are Told, Was Very Busy With Him In The Levant,
Tempting Him To Lay Aside All Thoughts
Of escaping, to return to
Algier, and to continue a Mussulman, and the loss of eight months’ pay
and certain
Other monies seems to have weighed heavily upon his soul.
Still he prepared for the desperate enterprise, in which failure would
have exposed him to be dragged about the streets on the stones till
half dead, and then be burned to ashes in the Jews’ burial-place. A
generous friend, Mr. Eliot, a Cornish merchant who had served some part
of his apprenticeship in Exon and had settled at Smyrna, paid £4 for his
passage in a French ship to Leghorn. Therefrom, in the evening before
sailing, he went on board “apparel’d as an Englishman with his beard
shaven, a campaign periwig, and a cane in his hand, accompanied with
three or four of his friends. At Leghorn he prostrated himself, and
kissed the earth, blessing Almighty God, for his mercy and goodness to
him, that he once more set footing on the
[p.361] European Christian[FN#3] part of the world.” He travelled through
Italy, Germany, and Holland, where he received many and great
kindnesses. But his patriotism was damped as he entered “England, his own
native country, and the civilised land must have made him for a time
regret having left Algier. The very first night he lay ashore, he was
“imprest into the kings service” (we having at that time war with France);
despite arguments and tears he spent some days in Colchester jail, and
finally he was put on board a smack to be carried to the Dreadnought
man-of-war. But happily for himself he had written to Sir William
Falkener, one of the Smyrna or Turkey company in London; that gentleman
used his interest to procure a protection from the Admiralty office,
upon the receipt of which good news, Joseph Pitts did “rejoice
exceedingly and could not forbear leaping upon the deck.” He went to
London, thanked Sir William, and hurried down to Exeter, where he ends
his fifteen years’ tale with a homely, heartful and affecting description
of his first meeting with his father. His mother died about a year
before his return.
The following passages are parts of the 7th and 8th chapters of Pitts’
little-known work.
“Next we came to Gidda, the nearest sea-port town to Mecca, not quite one
day’s journey from it,[FN#4] where the ships are unloaded. Here we are
met by Dilleels,[FN#5] i.e. certain persons who came from Mecca on
purpose to instruct the Hagges, or pilgrims, in the ceremonies (most
[p.362] of them being ignorant of them) which are to be used in their
worship at the temple there; in the middle of which is a place which
they call Beat Allah, i.e. the House of God. They say that Abraham
built it; to which I give no credit.
“As soon as we come to the town of Mecca, the Dilleel, or guide, carries
us into the great street, which is in the midst of the town, and to
which the temple joins.[FN#6] After the camels are laid down, he first
directs us to the Fountains, there to take Abdes[FN#7]; which being
done, he brings us to the temple, into which (having left our shoes
with one who constantly attends to receive them) we enter at the door
called Bab-al-salem, i.e. the Welcome Gate, or Gate of Peace. After a
few paces entrance, the Dilleel makes a stand, and holds up his hands
towards the Beat-Allah (it being in the middle of the Mosque), the
Hagges imitating him, and saying after him the same words which he
speaks. At the very first sight of the Beat-Allah, the Hagges melt into
tears, then we are led up to it, still speaking after the Dilleel; then
we are led round it seven times, and then make two Erkaets.[FN#8] This
being done, we are led into the street again, where we are sometimes to
run and sometimes to walk very quick with the Dilleel from one place of
the street to the other, about a bowshot.[FN#9] And I profess I could
not chuse but admire to see those poor creatures so extraordinary
devout, and affectionate, when they were about these superstitions, and
with what awe and trembling they
[p.363] were possessed; in so much that I could scarce forbear shedding
of tears, to see their zeal, though blind and idolatrous. After all
this is done, we returned to the place in the street where we left our
camels, with our provisions, and necessaries, and then look out for
lodgings; where when we come, we disrobe and take of our
Hirrawems,[FN#10] and put on our ordinary clothes again.
“All the pilgrims hold it to be their great duty well to improve their
time whilst they are at Mecca, not to do their accustomed duty and
devotion in the temple, but to spend all their leisure time there, and
as far as strength will permit to continue at Towoaf, i.e. to walk
round the Beat-Allah, which is about four and twenty paces square. At
one corner of the Beat, there is a black stone fastened and framed in
with silver plate,[FN#11] and every time they come to that corner, they
kiss the stone; and having gone round seven times they perform two
Erkaets-nomas, or prayers. This stone, they say, was formerly white,
and then it was called Haggar Essaed, i.e. the White Stone.[FN#12] But
by reason of the sins of the multitudes of people who kiss it, it is
become black, and is now called Haggar Esswaed, or the Black Stone.
“This place is so much frequented by people going round it, that the
place of the Towoaf, i.e. the circuit which they take in going round
it, is seldom void of people at any time of the day or night.[FN#13]
Many have waited several weeks, nay months, for the opportunity of
finding it so.
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