Go to a place called Arafat, an eminence which
stands detached in the centre of a valley; and in the way thither there
is a part of the road for about the space of a mile where it is
customary to run.[FN#9] The road also passes near a spot where was
formerly a well which is superstitiously supposed to be something
unholy and cursed by the Prophet himself. And for this reason, every
pilgrim as he goes by it throws a stone; and the custom is so universal
and has prevailed so long that none can be picked up in the
neighbourhood, and it is necessary therefore to provide them from a
distance, and some persons even bring them out of their own remote
countries, thinking thereby to gain the greater favour in the sight of
Heaven.[FN#10]
[p.396]“Beyond this point stands a column,[FN#11] which is set up as the
extreme limit of the pilgrimage, and this every pilgrim must have
passed before sunrise; while all such as have not gone beyond it by
that time must wait till the next year, if they wish to be entitled to
the consideration and privileges of complete Hajis, since, without this
circumstance, all the rest remains imperfect.
“The hill of Arafat lying at a distance of seven hours from Meccah, it is
necessary to set out very early in order to be there in time; many of
the pilgrims, and especially the more devout amongst them, performing
all the way on foot.
“When they have reached the place[FN#12] all who have any money according
to their means sacrifice a sheep, and the rich often furnish those who
are poor and destitute with the means of buying one.
“Such a quantity of sacrifices quite fills the whole open space with
victims, and the poor flock from all the country round to have meat
distributed to them.
“After which, at the conclusion of the whole ceremony, all the names are
registered by a scribe appointed for the purpose[FN#13]: and when this
is finished the African
[p.397] and Asiatic Caravans part company and return to their own
several countries, many detachments of the pilgrims visiting Medinah in
the way.”
Being desirous of enrolment in some new division of Mohammed Ali’s army,
Finati overcame the difficulty of personal access to him by getting a
memorial written in Turkish and standing at the window of a house
joined on to the enclosure of the great temple. After the sixth day the
Pasha observed him, and in the “greatest rage imaginable” desired a
detailed account of the defeat at Kunfudah. Finati then received five
hundred piastres and an order to join a corps at Taif, together with a
strict charge of secre[c]y, “since it was of importance that no reverse
or check should be generally talked of.” Before starting our author adds
some “singular particulars” which escaped him in his account of Meccah.
“Many of the pilgrims go through the ceremony of walking the entire
circuit of the city upon the outside; and the order in which this is
performed is as follows. The devoted first goes without the gates, and,
after presenting himself there to the religious officer who presides,
throws off all his clothes, and takes a sort of large wrapping garment
in lieu of them to cover himself; upon which he sets off walking at a
very quick pace, or rather running, to reach the nearest of the four
corners of the city, a sort of guide going with him at the same rate
all the way, who prompts certain ejaculations or prayers, which he
ought to mention at particular spots as he passes; at every angle he
finds a barber, who with wonderful quickness wets and shaves one
quarter of his head, and so on; till he has reached the barber at the
fourth angle, who completes the work. After which the
[p.398] pilgrim takes his clothes again, and has finished that act of
devotion.[FN#14]
“There is also near the holy city an eminence called the hill of
light,[FN#15] as I imagine from its remarkable whiteness. Upon this the
pilgrims have a custom of leaping while they repeat at the same time
prayers and verses of the Koran. Many also resort to a lesser hill,
about a mile distant from the city, on which there is a small Mosque,
which is reputed as a place of great sanctity.
“An annual ceremony takes place in the great temple itself which is worth
mentioning before I quit the subject altogether.
“I have already spoken of the little square building whose walls are
covered with hangings of black and gold, and which is called the Caaba.
Once in the year,[FN#16] and once only, this holy of holies is opened,
and as there is nothing to prevent admission it appears surprising at
first to see so few who are willing to go into the interior, and
especially since this act is supposed to have great efficacy in the
remission of all past sins. But the reason must be sought for in the
conditions which are annexed, since he who enters is, in the first
place, bound to exercise no gainful pursuit, or trade, or to work for
his livelihood
[p.399] in any way whatever; and, next, he must submit patiently to all
offences and injuries, and must never again touch anything that is
impure or unholy.[FN#17]”
“One more remark with reference to the great scene of sacrifice at
Arafat. Though the Pasha’s power in Arabia had been now for some time
established, yet it was not complete or universal by any means—the
Wahhabees still retaining upon many sides a very considerable footing,
so that open and unprotected places, even within half a day’s journey of
Meccah, might be liable to surprise and violence.”
For these reasons, our author informs us, a sufficient force was
disposed round Arafat, and the prodigious multitude went and returned
without molestation or insult.[FN#18]
