Off all his clothes, and takes a sort of large wrapping garment
in lieu of them to cover himself; upon which he sets off walking at a
very quick pace, or rather running, to reach the nearest of the four
corners of the city, a sort of guide going with him at the same rate
all the way, who prompts certain ejaculations or prayers, which he
ought to mention at particular spots as he passes; at every angle he
finds a barber, who with wonderful quickness wets and shaves one
quarter of his head, and so on; till he has reached the barber at the
fourth angle, who completes the work. After which the
[p.398] pilgrim takes his clothes again, and has finished that act of
devotion.[FN#14]
“There is also near the holy city an eminence called the hill of
light,[FN#15] as I imagine from its remarkable whiteness. Upon this the
pilgrims have a custom of leaping while they repeat at the same time
prayers and verses of the Koran. Many also resort to a lesser hill,
about a mile distant from the city, on which there is a small Mosque,
which is reputed as a place of great sanctity.
“An annual ceremony takes place in the great temple itself which is worth
mentioning before I quit the subject altogether.
“I have already spoken of the little square building whose walls are
covered with hangings of black and gold, and which is called the Caaba.
Once in the year,[FN#16] and once only, this holy of holies is opened,
and as there is nothing to prevent admission it appears surprising at
first to see so few who are willing to go into the interior, and
especially since this act is supposed to have great efficacy in the
remission of all past sins. But the reason must be sought for in the
conditions which are annexed, since he who enters is, in the first
place, bound to exercise no gainful pursuit, or trade, or to work for
his livelihood
[p.399] in any way whatever; and, next, he must submit patiently to all
offences and injuries, and must never again touch anything that is
impure or unholy.[FN#17]”
“One more remark with reference to the great scene of sacrifice at
Arafat. Though the Pasha’s power in Arabia had been now for some time
established, yet it was not complete or universal by any means—the
Wahhabees still retaining upon many sides a very considerable footing,
so that open and unprotected places, even within half a day’s journey of
Meccah, might be liable to surprise and violence.”
For these reasons, our author informs us, a sufficient force was
disposed round Arafat, and the prodigious multitude went and returned
without molestation or insult.[FN#18]
