By Far The Most Interesting Incident In My Visit To Java Was A
Trip To The Summit Of The Pangerango And Gedeh Mountains; The
Former An Extinct Volcanic Cone About 10,000 Feet High, The
Latter An Active Crater On A Lower Portion Of The Same Mountain
Range.
Tchipanas, about four miles over the Megamendong Pass, is
at the foot of the mountain.
A small country house for the
Governor-General and a branch of the Botanic Gardens are situated
here, the keeper of which accommodated me with a bed for a night.
There are many beautiful trees and shrubs planted here, and large
quantities of European vegetables are grown for the Governor-
General's table. By the side of a little torrent that bordered
the garden, quantities of orchids were cultivated, attached to
the trunks of trees, or suspended from the branches, forming an
interesting open air orchid-house. As I intended to stay two or
three nights on the mountain, I engaged two coolies to carry my
baggage, and with my two hunters we started early the next
morning.
The first mile was over open country, which brought us to the
forest that covers the whole mountain from a height of about
5,000 feet. The next mile or two was a tolerably steep ascent
through a grand virgin forest, the trees being of great size, and
the undergrowth consisting of fine herbaceous plants, tree-ferns,
and shrubby vegetation. I was struck by the immense number of
ferns that grew by the side of the road. Their variety seemed
endless, and I was continually stopping to admire some new and
interesting forms. I could now well understand what I had been
told by the gardener, that 300 species had been found on this one
mountain. A little before noon we reached the small plateau of
Tjiburong, at the foot of the steeper part of the mountain, where
there is a plank-house for the accommodation of travellers. Close
by is a picturesque waterfall and a curious cavern, which I had
not time to explore. Continuing our ascent the road became
narrow, rugged and steep, winding zigzag up the cone, which is
covered with irregular masses of rock, and overgrown with a dense
luxuriant but less lofty vegetation. We passed a torrent of water
which is not much lower than the boiling point, and has a most
singular appearance as it foams over its rugged bed, sending up
clouds of steam, and often concealed by the overhanging herbage
of ferns and lycopodia, which here thrive with more luxuriance
than elsewhere.
At about 7,500 feet we came to another hut of open bamboos, at a
place called Kandang Badak, or "Rhinoceros-field," which we were
going to make our temporary abode. Here was a small clearing,
with abundance of tree-ferns and some young plantations of
Cinchona. As there was now a thick mist and drizzling rain, I did
not attempt to go on to the summit that evening, but made two
visits to it during my stay, as well as one to the active crater
of Gedeh. This is a vast semicircular chasm, bounded by black
perpendicular walls of rock, and surrounded by miles of rugged
scoria-covered slopes. The crater itself is not very deep. It
exhibits patches of sulphur and variously-coloured volcanic
products, and emits from several vents continual streams of smoke
and vapour. The extinct cone of Pangerango was to me more
interesting. The summit is an irregular undulating plain with a
low bordering ridge, and one deep lateral chasm. Unfortunately,
there was perpetual mist and rain either above or below us all
the time I was on the mountain; so that I never once saw the
plain below, or had a glimpse of the magnificent view which in
fine weather is to be obtained from its summit. Notwithstanding
this drawback I enjoyed the excursion exceedingly, for it was the
first time I had been high enough on a mountain near the Equator
to watch the change from a tropical to a temperate flora. I will
now briefly sketch these changes as I observed them in Java.
On ascending the mountain, we first meet with temperate forms of
herbaceous plants, so low as 3,000 feet, where strawberries and
violets begin to grow, but the former are tasteless, and the
latter have very small and pale flowers. Weedy composites also
begin to give a European aspect to the wayside herbage. It is
between 2,000 and 5,000 feet that the forests and ravines exhibit
the utmost development of tropical luxuriance and beauty. The
abundance of noble Tree-ferns, sometimes fifty feet high,
contributes greatly to the general effect, since of all the forms
of tropical vegetation they are certainly the most striking and
beautiful. Some of the deep ravines which have been cleared of
large timber are full of them from top to bottom; and where the
road crosses one of these valleys, the view of their feathery
crowns, in varied positions above and below the eye, offers a
spectacle of picturesque beauty never to be forgotten. The
splendid foliage of the broad-leaved Musceae and Zingiberaceae,
with their curious and brilliant flowers; and the elegant and
varied forms of plants allied to Begonia and Melastoma,
continually attract the attention in this region. Filling in the
spaces between the trees and larger plants, on every trunk and
stump and branch, are hosts of Orchids, Ferns and Lycopods, which
wave and hang and intertwine in ever-varying complexity. At about
5,000 feet I first saw horsetails (Equisetum), very like our own
species. At 6,000 feet, raspberries abound, and thence to the
summit of the mountain there are three species of eatable Rubus.
At 7,000 feet Cypresses appear, and the forest trees become
reduced in size, and more covered with mosses and lichens. From
this point upward these rapidly increase, so that the blocks of
rock and scoria that form the mountain slope are completely
hidden in a mossy vegetation.
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