Fearing A
Reception Like That Of The Previous Evening, We Had Intended Riding
Straight Through The Place To Our Destination For The Night, When A
European Advanced To Meet Us Through The Snow.
Mr. V - - , a Russian,
and overseer of the fishery, had made his hut as comfortable as
circumstances would admit, and we were soon seated before a blazing
fire (with a chimney!), discussing a plate of steaming shtchi, [C]
washed down by a bottle of kaketi.
Roast mutton and pastry followed,
succeeded by coffee and vodka (for we had the good luck to arrive at
our host's dinner-hour). By the time cigarettes were under way we felt
fully equal to the long cold ride of fifteen miles that separated us
from our night's halting-place, Alala Resht itself seemed at least
thirty miles nearer than it had before dinner.
"You are bold," said Mr. V - - , in French, "to attempt this journey
at this time of year. I do not mean as regards footpads and
robbers reports concerning them are always greatly exaggerated; but
the rivers are in a terrible state. There is one just beyond Alala,
that I know you cannot cross on horseback. I will send a man on at
once to try and get a boat for you, and you can pull the horses after
you. There is an Armenian at Alala, who will give you a lodging
to-night" Mr. V - - 's good fare and several glasses of vodka
considerably shortened our ride, and we arrived at Alala before dark,
where a hearty welcome awaited us.
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