The Bible In Spain By George Borrow




































































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I was walking late one night alone in the Alameda of Saint James,
considering in what direction I should next - Page 203
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I Was Walking Late One Night Alone In The Alameda Of Saint James, Considering In What Direction I Should Next Bend My Course, For I Had Been Already Ten Days In This Place; The Moon Was Shining Gloriously, And Illumined Every Object Around To A Considerable Distance.

The Alameda was quite deserted; everybody, with the exception of myself, having for some time retired.

I sat down on a bench and continued my reflections, which were suddenly interrupted by a heavy stumping sound. Turning my eyes in the direction from which it proceeded, I perceived what at first appeared a shapeless bulk slowly advancing: nearer and nearer it drew, and I could now distinguish the outline of a man dressed in coarse brown garments, a kind of Andalusian hat, and using as a staff the long peeled branch of a tree. He had now arrived opposite the bench where I was seated, when, stopping, he took off his hat and demanded charity in uncouth tones and in a strange jargon, which had some resemblance to the Catalan. The moon shone on grey locks and on a ruddy weather-beaten countenance which I at once recognized: "Benedict Mol," said I, "is it possible that I see you at Compostella?"

"Och, mein Gott, es ist der Herr!" replied Benedict. "Och, what good fortune, that the Herr is the first person I meet at Compostella."

Myself. - I can scarcely believe my eyes. Do you mean to say that you have just arrived at this place?

Benedict. - Ow yes, I am this moment arrived. I have walked all the long way from Madrid.

Myself. - What motive could possibly bring you such a distance?

Benedict. - Ow, I am come for the schatz - the treasure. I told you at Madrid that I was coming; and now I have met you here, I have no doubt that I shall find it, the schatz.

Myself. - In what manner did you support yourself by the way?

Benedict. - Ow, I begged, I bettled, and so contrived to pick up some cuartos; and when I reached Toro, I worked at my trade of soap-making for a time, till the people said I knew nothing about it, and drove me out of the town. So I went on and begged and bettled till I arrived at Orense, which is in this country of Galicia. Ow, I do not like this country of Galicia at all.

Myself. - Why not?

Benedict. - Why! because here they all beg and bettle, and have scarce anything for themselves, much less for me whom they know to be a foreign man. O the misery of Galicia. When I arrive at night at one of their pigsties, which they call posadas, and ask for bread to eat in the name of God, and straw to lie down in, they curse me, and say there is neither bread nor straw in Galicia; and sure enough, since I have been here I have seen neither, only something that they call broa, and a kind of reedy rubbish with which they litter the horses:

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