Learn, I Pray You, That Tangier
Was Not Always What It Is Now, Nor Did It Occupy Always The Place
Which It Does Now.
It stood yonder (pointing to the east) on those
hills above the shore, and ruins of houses are still to be seen
there, and the spot is called Old Tangier.
So in the old time, as
I have heard say, this Dar Sinah was a street, whether without or
within the wall matters not, and there resided men of all trades;
smiths of gold and silver, and iron, and tin, and artificers of all
kinds: you had only to go to the Dar Sinah if you wished for
anything wrought, and there instantly you would find a master of
the particular craft. My sultan tells me he likes the look of Dar
Sinah at the present day; truly I know not why, especially as the
kermous are not yet in their ripeness nor fit to eat. If he likes
Dar Sinah now, how would my sultan have liked it in the olden time,
when it was filled with gold and silver, and iron and tin, and was
noisy with the hammers, and the masters and the cunning men? We
are now arrived at the Chali del Bahar (sea-shore). Take care, my
sultan, we tread upon bones."
We had emerged from the Dar Sinah, and the sea-shore was before us;
on a sudden we found ourselves amongst a multitude of bones of all
kinds of animals, and seemingly of all dates; some being blanched
with time and exposure to sun and wind, whilst to others the flesh
still partly clung; whole carcases were here, horses, asses, and
even the uncouth remains of a camel. Gaunt dogs were busy here,
growling, tearing, and gnawing; amongst whom, unintimidated,
stalked the carrion vulture, fiercely battening and even disputing
with the brutes the garbage; whilst the crow hovered overhead and
croaked wistfully, or occasionally perched upon some upturned rib
bone. "See," said the Mahasni, "the kawar of the animals. My
sultan has seen the kawar of the Moslems and the mearrah of the
Jews; and he sees here the kawar of the animals. All the animals
which die in Tangier by the hand of God, horse, dog, or camel, are
brought to this spot, and here they putrefy or are devoured by the
birds of the heaven or the wild creatures that prowl on the chali.
Come, my sultan, it is not good to remain long in this place."
We were preparing to leave the spot, when we heard a galloping down
the Dar Sinah, and presently a horse and rider darted at full speed
from the mouth of the lane and appeared upon the strand; the
horseman, when he saw us, pulled up his steed with much difficulty,
and joined us. The horse was small but beautiful, a sorrel with
long mane and tail; had he been hoodwinked he might perhaps have
been mistaken for a Cordovese jaca; he was broad-chested, and
rotund in his hind quarters, and possessed much of the plumpness
and sleekness which distinguish that breed, but looking in his eyes
you would have been undeceived in a moment; a wild savage fire
darted from the restless orbs, and so far from exhibiting the
docility of the other noble and loyal animal, he occasionally
plunged desperately, and could scarcely be restrained by a strong
curb and powerful arm from resuming his former headlong course.
The rider was a youth, apparently about eighteen, dressed as a
European, with a Montero cap on his head: he was athletically
built, but with lengthy limbs, his feet, for he rode without
stirrups or saddle, reaching almost to the ground; his complexion
was almost as dark as that of a Mulatto; his features very
handsome, the eyes particularly so, but filled with an expression
which was bold and bad; and there was a disgusting look of
sensuality about the mouth. He addressed a few words to the
Mahasni, with whom he seemed to be well acquainted, inquiring who I
was. The old man answered, "O Jew, my sultan understands our
speech, thou hadst better address thyself to him." The lad then
spoke to me in Arabic, but almost instantly dropping that language
proceeded to discourse in tolerable French. "I suppose you are
French," said he with much familiarity, "shall you stay long in
Tangier?" Having received an answer, he proceeded, "as you are an
Englishman, you are doubtless fond of horses, know, therefore,
whenever you are disposed for a ride, I will accompany you, and
procure you horses. My name is Ephraim Fragey: I am stable-boy to
the Neapolitan consul, who prizes himself upon possessing the best
horses in Tangier; you shall mount any you please. Would you like
to try this little aoud (stallion)?" I thanked him, but declined
his offer for the present, asking him at the same time how he had
acquired the French language, and why he, a Jew, did not appear in
the dress of his brethren? "I am in the service of a consul," said
he, "and my master obtained permission that I might dress myself in
this manner; and as to speaking French, I have been to Marseilles
and Naples, to which last place I conveyed horses, presents from
the Sultan. Besides French, I can speak Italian." He then
dismounted, and holding the horse firmly by the bridle with one
hand, proceeded to undress himself, which having accomplished, he
mounted the animal and rode into the water. The skin of his body
was much akin in colour to that of a frog or toad, but the frame
was that of a young Titan. The horse took to the water with great
unwillingness, and at a small distance from the shore commenced
struggling with his rider, whom he twice dashed from his back; the
lad, however, clung to the bridle, and detained the animal. All
his efforts, however, being unavailing to ride him deeper in, he
fell to washing him strenuously with his hands, then leading him
out, he dressed himself and returned by the way he came.
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