The Principal City
Is Evora, One Of The Most Ancient In Portugal, And Formerly The
Seat Of A Branch Of The Inquisition, Yet More Cruel And Baneful
Than The Terrible One Of Lisbon.
Evora lies about sixty miles from
Lisbon, and to Evora I determined on going with twenty Testaments
and two Bibles.
How I fared there will presently be seen.
CHAPTER II
Boatmen of the Tagus - Dangers of the Stream - Aldea Gallega - The
Hostelry - Robbers - Sabocha - Adventure of a Muleteer - Estalagem de
Ladroes - Don Geronimo - Vendas Novas - Royal Residence - Swine of the
Alemtejo - Monto Moro - Swayne Vonved - Singular Goatherd - Children of
the Fields - Infidels and Sadducees.
On the afternoon of the sixth of December I set out for Evora,
accompanied by my servant. I had been informed that the tide would
serve for the regular passage-boats, or felouks, as they are
called, at about four o'clock, but on reaching the side of the
Tagus opposite to Aldea Gallega, between which place and Lisbon the
boats ply, I found that the tide would not permit them to start
before eight o'clock. Had I waited for them I should have probably
landed at Aldea Gallega about midnight, and I felt little
inclination to make my entree in the Alemtejo at that hour;
therefore, as I saw small boats which can push off at any time
lying near in abundance, I determined upon hiring one of them for
the passage, though the expense would be thus considerably
increased. I soon agreed with a wild-looking lad, who told me that
he was in part owner of one of the boats, to take me over.
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