There Is No Country In Which The English Are So Popular As In
France; But, Though The French Have Been Frequently Roughly Handled
By The English, And Have Seen Their Capital Occupied By An English
Army, They Have Never Been Subjected To The Supposed Ignominy Of
Receiving Assistance From Them.
The fortifications of Elvas are models of their kind, and, at the
first view, it would seem that the town, if well garrisoned, might
bid defiance to any hostile power; but it has its weak point:
The
western side is commanded by a hill, at the distance of half a
mile, from which an experienced general would cannonade it, and
probably with success. It is the last town in this part of
Portugal, the distance to the Spanish frontier being barely two
leagues. It was evidently built as a rival to Badajoz, upon which
it looks down from its height across a sandy plain and over the
sullen waters of the Guadiana; but, though a strong town, it can
scarcely be called a defence to the frontier, which is open on all
sides, so that there would not be the slightest necessity for an
invading army to approach within a dozen leagues of its walls,
should it be disposed to avoid them. Its fortifications are so
extensive that ten thousand men at least would be required to man
them, who, in the event of an invasion, might be far better
employed in meeting the enemy in the open field. The French,
during their occupation of Portugal, kept a small force in this
place, who, at the approach of the British, retreated to the fort,
where they shortly after capitulated.
Having nothing farther to detain me at Elvas, I proceeded to cross
the frontier into Spain. My idiot guide was on his way back to
Aldea Gallega; and, on the fifth of January, I mounted a sorry mule
without bridle or stirrups, which I guided by a species of halter,
and followed by a lad who was to attend me on another, I spurred
down the hill of Elvas to the plain, eager to arrive in old
chivalrous romantic Spain. But I soon found that I had no need to
quicken the beast which bore me, for though covered with sores,
wall-eyed, and with a kind of halt in its gait, it cantered along
like the wind.
In little more than half an hour we arrived at a brook, whose
waters ran vigorously between steep banks. A man who was standing
on the side directed me to the ford in the squeaking dialect of
Portugal; but whilst I was yet splashing through the water, a voice
from the other bank hailed me, in the magnificent language of
Spain, in this guise: "O Senor Caballero, que me de usted una
limosna por amor de Dios, una limosnita para que io me compre un
traguillo de vino tinto" (Charity, Sir Cavalier, for the love of
God, bestow an alms upon me, that I may purchase a mouthful of red
wine). In a moment I was on Spanish ground, as the brook, which is
called Acaia, is the boundary here of the two kingdoms, and having
flung the beggar a small piece of silver, I cried in ecstasy
"Santiago y cierra Espana!" and scoured on my way with more speed
than before, paying, as Gil Blas says, little heed to the torrent
of blessings which the mendicant poured forth in my rear: yet
never was charity more unwisely bestowed, for I was subsequently
informed that the fellow was a confirmed drunkard, who took his
station every morning at the ford, where he remained the whole day
for the purpose of extorting money from the passengers, which he
regularly spent every night in the wine-shops of Badajoz. To those
who gave him money he returned blessings, and to those who refused,
curses; being equally skilled and fluent in the use of either.
Badajoz was now in view, at the distance of little more than half a
league. We soon took a turn to the left, towards a bridge of many
arches across the Guadiana, which, though so famed in song and
ballad, is a very unpicturesque stream, shallow and sluggish,
though tolerably wide; its banks were white with linen which the
washer-women had spread out to dry in the sun, which was shining
brightly; I heard their singing at a great distance, and the theme
seemed to be the praises of the river where they were toiling, for
as I approached, I could distinguish Guadiana, Guadiana, which
reverberated far and wide, pronounced by the clear and strong
voices of many a dark-checked maid and matron. I thought there was
some analogy between their employment and my own: I was about to
tan my northern complexion by exposing myself to the hot sun of
Spain, in the humble hope of being able to cleanse some of the foul
stains of Popery from the minds of its children, with whom I had
little acquaintance, whilst they were bronzing themselves on the
banks of the river in order to make white the garments of
strangers: the words of an eastern poet returned forcibly to my
mind.
"I'll weary myself each night and each day,
To aid my unfortunate brothers;
As the laundress tans her own face in the ray,
To cleanse the garments of others."
Having crossed the bridge, we arrived at the northern gate, when
out rushed from a species of sentry box a fellow wearing on his
head a high-peaked Andalusian hat, with his figure wrapped up in
one of those immense cloaks so well known to those who have
travelled in Spain, and which none but a Spaniard can wear in a
becoming manner: without saying a word, he laid hold of the halter
of the mule, and began to lead it through the gate up a dirty
street, crowded with long-cloaked people like himself. I asked him
what he meant, but he deigned not to return an answer, the boy,
however, who waited upon me said that it was one of the gate-
keepers, and that he was conducting us to the Custom House or
Alfandega, where the baggage would be examined.
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