To have no better means of amusing themselves than the exchange of
abusive language; a furious fusillade of this kind presently
commenced, in which the mate of our vessel particularly
distinguished himself; he was a grey-haired Genoese of sixty.
Though not able to speak their patois, I understood much of what
was said; it was truly shocking, and as they shouted it forth,
judging from their violent gestures and distorted features, you
would have concluded them to be bitter enemies; they were, however,
nothing of the kind, but excellent friends all the time, and indeed
very good-humoured fellows at bottom. Oh, the infirmities of human
nature! When will man learn to become truly Christian?
I am upon the whole very fond of the Genoese; they have, it is
true, much ribaldry and many vices, but they are a brave and
chivalrous people, and have ever been so, and from them I have
never experienced aught but kindness and hospitality.
After the lapse of another two hours, the Jew secretary arrived and
said something to the old mate, who grumbled much; then coming up
to me, he took off his hat and informed me that we were not to
start that day, saying at the same time that it was a shame to lose
such a noble wind, which would carry us to Tangier in three hours.
"Patience," said I, and went on shore.
I now strolled towards Saint Michael's cave, in company with the
Jewish lad whom I have before mentioned.
The way thither does not lie in the same direction as that which
leads to the excavations; these confront Spain, whilst the cave
yawns in the face of Africa. It lies nearly at the top of the
mountain, several hundred yards above the sea. We passed by the
public walks, where there are noble trees, and also by many small
houses, situated delightfully in gardens, and occupied by the
officers of the garrison. It is wrong to suppose Gibraltar a mere
naked barren rock; it is not without its beautiful spots - spots
such as these, looking cool and refreshing, with bright green
foliage. The path soon became very steep, and we left behind us
the dwellings of man. The gale of the preceding night had entirely
ceased, and not a breath of air was stirring; the midday sun shone
in all its fierce glory, and the crags up which we clambered were
not unfrequently watered with the perspiration drops which rained
from our temples: at length we arrived at the cavern.
The mouth is a yawning cleft in the side of the mountain, about
twelve feet high and as many wide; within there is a very rapid
precipitous descent for some fifty yards, where the cavern
terminates in an abyss which leads to unknown depths.
