At Nine, After Having Paid A Most Exorbitant Sum For Slight
Accommodation, I Started From Arroyolos, Which Is A Town
Or large
village situated on very elevated ground, and discernible afar off.
It can boast of the remains of a
Large ancient and seemingly
Moorish castle, which stands on a hill on the left as you take the
road to Estremoz.
About a mile from Arroyolos I overtook a train of carts escorted by
a number of Portuguese soldiers, conveying stores and ammunition
into Spain. Six or seven of these soldiers marched a considerable
way in front; they were villainous looking ruffians upon whose
livid and ghastly countenances were written murder, and all the
other crimes which the decalogue forbids. As I passed by, one of
them, with a harsh, croaking voice, commenced cursing all
foreigners. "There," said he, "is this Frenchman riding on
horseback" (I was on a mule), "with a man" (the idiot) "to take
care of him, and all because he is rich; whilst I, who am a poor
soldier, am obliged to tramp on foot. I could find it in my heart
to shoot him dead, for in what respect is he better than I? But he
is a foreigner, and the devil helps foreigners and hates the
Portuguese." He continued shouting his remarks until I got about
forty yards in advance, when I commenced laughing; but it would
have been more prudent in me to have held my peace, for the next
moment, with bang - bang, two bullets, well aimed, came whizzing
past my ears.
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