OLD CALABRIA

BY NORMAN DOUGLAS

CONTENTS

I. SARACEN LUCERA II. MANFRED'S TOWN III. THE ANGEL OF MANFREDONIA IV. CAVE-WORSHIP V. LAND OF HORACE VI. AT VENOSA VII. THE BANDUSIAN FOUNT VIII. TILLERS OF THE SOIL IX. MOVING SOUTHWARDS X. THE FLYING MONK XI. BY THE INLAND SEA XII. MOLLE TARENTUM XIII. INTO THE JUNGLE XIV. DRAGONS XV. BYZANTINISM XVI. REPOSING AT CASTROVILLARI XVII. OLD MORANO XVIII. AFRICAN INTRUDERS XIX. UPLANDS OF POLLINO XX. A MOUNTAIN FESTIVAL XXI. MILTON IN CALABRIA XXII. THE "GREEK" SILA XXIII. ALBANIANS AND THEIR COLLEGE XXIV. AN ALBANIAN SEER XXV. SCRAMBLING TO LONGOBUCCO XXVI. AMONG THE BRUTTIANS XXVII. CALABRIAN BRIGANDAGE XXVIII. THE GREATER SILA XXIX. CHAOS XXX. THE SKIRTS OF MONTALTO XXXI. SOUTHERN SAINTLINESS XXXII. ASPROMONTE, THE CLOUD-GATHERER XXXIII. MUSOLINO AND THE LAW XXXIV. MALARIA XXXV. CAULONIA TO SERRA XXXVI. MEMORIES OF GISSING XXXVII. COTRONE XXXVIII. THE SAGE OF CROTON XXXIX. MIDDAY AT PETELIA XL. THE COLUMN INDEX.

OLD CALABRIA

I

SARACEN LUCERA

I find it hard to sum up in one word the character of Lucera - the effect it produces on the mind; one sees so many towns that the freshness of their images becomes blurred. The houses are low but not undignified; the streets regular and clean; there is electric light and somewhat indifferent accommodation for travellers; an infinity of barbers and chemists. Nothing remarkable in all this. Yet the character is there, if one could but seize upon it, since every place has its genius. Perhaps it lies in a certain feeling of aloofness that never leaves one here.

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