Old Calabria By Norman Douglas














































































 - 

That lady-mule, he said, is good at carrying loads. But she has never
had a Christian on her back - Page 216
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"That Lady-Mule," He Said, "Is Good At Carrying Loads.

But she has never had a Christian on her back till now.

I was rather curious to see how she would behave."

"Santo Dio! And do you expect me to pay four francs a day for having my bones broken in this fashion?"

"What would you, sir? She is still young - barely four years old. Only wait! Wait till she is ten or twelve."

To do him justice, however, he tried to make amends in other ways. And he certainly knew the tracks. But he was a returned emigrant, and when an Italian has once crossed the ocean he is useless for my purposes, he has lost his savour - the virtue has gone out of him. True Italians will soon be rare as the dodo in these parts. These americani cast off their ancient animistic traits and patriarchal disposition with the ease of a serpent; a new creature emerges, of a wholly different character - sophisticated, extortionate at times, often practical and in so far useful; scorner of every tradition, infernally wideawake and curiously deficient in what the Germans call "Gemuet" (one of those words which we sadly need in our own language). Instead of being regaled with tales of Saint Venus and fairies and the Evil Eye, I learnt a good deal about the price of food in the Brazilian highlands.

The only piece of local information I was able to draw from him concerned a mysterious plant in the forest that "shines by night." I dare say he meant the dictamnus fraxinella, which is sometimes luminous.

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