From These Trees, Which
In Former Times Must Have Covered The Sila Region, Was Made That
Bruttian Pitch Mentioned By Strabo And Other Ancient Writers; From Them
The Athenians, The Syracusans, Tarentines And Finally The Romans Built
Their Fleets.
Their timber was used in the construction of Caserta palace.
A house stands here, inhabited by government officials the whole year
round - one may well puzzle how they pass the long winter, when snow lies
from October to May. So early did I arrive at this establishment that
the more civilized of its inhabitants were still asleep; by waiting, I
might have learnt something of the management of the estate, but gross
material preoccupations - the prospect of a passable luncheon at San
Giovanni after the "Hotel Vittoria" fare - tempted me to press forwards.
A boorish and unreliable-looking individual volunteered three pieces of
information - that the house was built thirty years ago, that a large
nursery for plants lies about ten kilometres distant, and that this
particular domain covers "two or four thousand hectares." A young
plantation of larches and silver birches - aliens to this region - seemed
to be doing well.
Not far from here, along my track, lies Santa Barbara, two or three
huts, with corn still green - like Verace (above Acri) on the watershed
between the Ionian and upper Grati. Then follows a steep climb up the
slopes of Mount Pettinascura, whose summit lies 1708 metres above
sea-level. This is the typical landscape of the Sila Grande. There is
not a human habitation in sight; forests all around, with views down
many-folded vales into the sea and towards the distant and fairy-like
Apennines, a serrated edge, whose limestone precipices gleam like
crystals of amethyst between the blue sky and the dusky woodlands of the
foreground.
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