Of Costume There Was Little To Be Observed - Though The
Long Soft Cap Worn By Most Of The Men, Hanging Bag-Like Over One Ear
Almost To The Shoulder, Is Picturesque.
The female water-carriers, a
long slim cask resting lengthwise upon their padded heads, hold
attention as they go to and from the fountains.
Good-looking people,
grave of manner, and doing their business without noise. It was my
last sight of the Calabrian hillsmen; to the end they held my
interest and my respect. When towns have sucked dry their population
of strength and virtue, it is such folk as these, hardy from the
free breath of heaven and the scent of earth, who will renew a
flaccid race.
Walking beyond the town in the southern direction, where the shape
of Etna shows more clearly amid the lower mountains, I found myself
approaching what looked like a handsome public edifice, a museum or
gallery of art. It was a long building, graced with a portico, and
coloured effectively in dull red; all about it stood lemon trees,
and behind, overtopping the roof, several fine palms. Moved by
curiosity I quickened my steps, and as I drew nearer I felt sure
that this must be some interesting institution of which I had not
heard. Presently I observed along the facade a row of heads of oxen
carved in stone - an ornament decidedly puzzling. Last of all my
eyes perceived, over the stately entrance, the word "Macello," and
with astonishment I became aware that this fine structure, so
agreeably situated, was nothing else than the town slaughter-house.
Does the like exist elsewhere?
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