But its situation
seems well chosen for pleasure, if not for strength; it stands at
the head of the lake, and, by a sloop of sixty tuns, is supplied
from Inverness with great convenience.
We were now to cross the Highlands towards the western coast, and
to content ourselves with such accommodations, as a way so little
frequented could afford. The journey was not formidable, for it
was but of two days, very unequally divided, because the only
house, where we could be entertained, was not further off than a
third of the way. We soon came to a high hill, which we mounted by
a military road, cut in traverses, so that as we went upon a higher
stage, we saw the baggage following us below in a contrary
direction. To make this way, the rock has been hewn to a level
with labour that might have broken the perseverance of a Roman
legion.
The country is totally denuded of its wood, but the stumps both of
oaks and firs, which are still found, shew that it has been once a
forest of large timber. I do not remember that we saw any animals,
but we were told that, in the mountains, there are stags, roebucks,
goats and rabbits.
We did not perceive that this tract was possessed by human beings,
except that once we saw a corn field, in which a lady was walking
with some gentlemen. Their house was certainly at no great
distance, but so situated that we could not descry it.
Passing on through the dreariness of solitude, we found a party of
soldiers from the fort, working on the road, under the
superintendence of a serjeant. We told them how kindly we had been
treated at the garrison, and as we were enjoying the benefit of
their labours, begged leave to shew our gratitude by a small
present.
ANOCH
Early in the afternoon we came to Anoch, a village in Glenmollison
of three huts, one of which is distinguished by a chimney. Here we
were to dine and lodge, and were conducted through the first room,
that had the chimney, into another lighted by a small glass window.
The landlord attended us with great civility, and told us what he
could give us to eat and drink. I found some books on a shelf,
among which were a volume or more of Prideaux's Connection.
This I mentioned as something unexpected, and perceived that I did
not please him. I praised the propriety of his language, and was
answered that I need not wonder, for he had learned it by grammar.
By subsequent opportunities of observation, I found that my host's
diction had nothing peculiar. Those Highlanders that can speak
English, commonly speak it well, with few of the words, and little
of the tone by which a Scotchman is distinguished. Their language
seems to have been learned in the army or the navy, or by some
communication with those who could give them good examples of
accent and pronunciation. By their Lowland neighbours they would
not willingly be taught; for they have long considered them as a
mean and degenerate race. These prejudices are wearing fast away;
but so much of them still remains, that when I asked a very learned
minister in the islands, which they considered as their most savage
clans: 'Those,' said he, 'that live next the Lowlands.'
As we came hither early in the day, we had time sufficient to
survey the place. The house was built like other huts of loose
stones, but the part in which we dined and slept was lined with
turf and wattled with twigs, which kept the earth from falling.
Near it was a garden of turnips and a field of potatoes. It stands
in a glen, or valley, pleasantly watered by a winding river. But
this country, however it may delight the gazer or amuse the
naturalist, is of no great advantage to its owners. Our landlord
told us of a gentleman, who possesses lands, eighteen Scotch miles
in length, and three in breadth; a space containing at least a
hundred square English miles. He has raised his rents, to the
danger of depopulating his farms, and he fells his timber, and by
exerting every art of augmentation, has obtained an yearly revenue
of four hundred pounds, which for a hundred square miles is three
halfpence an acre.
Some time after dinner we were surprised by the entrance of a young
woman, not inelegant either in mien or dress, who asked us whether
we would have tea. We found that she was the daughter of our host,
and desired her to make it. Her conversation, like her appearance,
was gentle and pleasing. We knew that the girls of the Highlands
are all gentlewomen, and treated her with great respect, which she
received as customary and due, and was neither elated by it, nor
confused, but repaid my civilities without embarassment, and told
me how much I honoured her country by coming to survey it.
She had been at Inverness to gain the common female qualifications,
and had, like her father, the English pronunciation. I presented
her with a book, which I happened to have about me, and should not
be pleased to think that she forgets me.
In the evening the soldiers, whom we had passed on the road, came
to spend at our inn the little money that we had given them. They
had the true military impatience of coin in their pockets, and had
marched at least six miles to find the first place where liquor
could be bought. Having never been before in a place so wild and
unfrequented, I was glad of their arrival, because I knew that we
had made them friends, and to gain still more of their good will,
we went to them, where they were carousing in the barn, and added
something to our former gift.
