There Is In The Island One House More, And Only One, That Has A
Chimney:
We entered it, and found it neither wanting repair nor
inhabitants; but to the farmers, who now possess it,
The chimney is
of no great value; for their fire was made on the floor, in the
middle of the room, and notwithstanding the dignity of their
mansion, they rejoiced, like their neighbours, in the comforts of
smoke.
It is observed, that ecclesiastical colleges are always in the most
pleasant and fruitful places. While the world allowed the monks
their choice, it is surely no dishonour that they chose well. This
Island is remarkably fruitful. The village near the churches is
said to contain seventy families, which, at five in a family, is
more than a hundred inhabitants to a mile. There are perhaps other
villages: yet both corn and cattle are annually exported.
But the fruitfulness of Iona is now its whole prosperity. The
inhabitants are remarkably gross, and remarkably neglected: I know
not if they are visited by any Minister. The Island, which was
once the metropolis of learning and piety, has now no school for
education, nor temple for worship, only two inhabitants that can
speak English, and not one that can write or read.
The people are of the clan of Maclean; and though Sir Allan had not
been in the place for many years, he was received with all the
reverence due to their Chieftain. One of them being sharply
reprehended by him, for not sending him some rum, declared after
his departure, in Mr. Boswell's presence, that he had no design of
disappointing him, 'for,' said he, 'I would cut my bones for him;
and if he had sent his dog for it, he should have had it.'
When we were to depart, our boat was left by the ebb at a great
distance from the water, but no sooner did we wish it afloat, than
the islanders gathered round it, and, by the union of many hands,
pushed it down the beach; every man who could contribute his help
seemed to think himself happy in the opportunity of being, for a
moment, useful to his Chief.
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