This payment, like others, was,
for want of money, made anciently in the produce of the land.
Macquarry was used to demand a sheep, for which he now takes a
crown, by that inattention to the uncertain proportion between the
value and the denomination of money, which has brought much
disorder into Europe. A sheep has always the same power of
supplying human wants, but a crown will bring at one time more, at
another less.
Ulva was not neglected by the piety of ardent times: it has still
to show what was once a church.
INCH KENNETH
In the morning we went again into the boat, and were landed on Inch
Kenneth, an Island about a mile long, and perhaps half a mile
broad, remarkable for pleasantness and fertility. It is verdant
and grassy, and fit both for pasture and tillage; but it has no
trees. Its only inhabitants were Sir Allan Maclean and two young
ladies, his daughters, with their servants.
Romance does not often exhibit a scene that strikes the imagination
more than this little desert in these depths of Western obscurity,
occupied not by a gross herdsman, or amphibious fisherman, but by a
gentleman and two ladies, of high birth, polished manners and
elegant conversation, who, in a habitation raised not very far
above the ground, but furnished with unexpected neatness and
convenience, practised all the kindness of hospitality, and
refinement of courtesy.
Sir Allan is the Chieftain of the great clan of Maclean, which is
said to claim the second place among the Highland families,
yielding only to Macdonald. Though by the misconduct of his
ancestors, most of the extensive territory, which would have
descended to him, has been alienated, he still retains much of the
dignity and authority of his birth. When soldiers were lately
wanting for the American war, application was made to Sir Allan,
and he nominated a hundred men for the service, who obeyed the
summons, and bore arms under his command.
He had then, for some time, resided with the young ladies in Inch
Kenneth, where he lives not only with plenty, but with elegance,
having conveyed to his cottage a collection of books, and what else
is necessary to make his hours pleasant.
When we landed, we were met by Sir Allan and the Ladies,
accompanied by Miss Macquarry, who had passed some time with them,
and now returned to Ulva with her father.
We all walked together to the mansion, where we found one cottage
for Sir Allan, and I think two more for the domesticks and the
offices. We entered, and wanted little that palaces afford. Our
room was neatly floored, and well lighted; and our dinner, which
was dressed in one of the other huts, was plentiful and delicate.
In the afternoon Sir Allan reminded us, that the day was Sunday,
which he never suffered to pass without some religious distinction,
and invited us to partake in his acts of domestick worship; which I
hope neither Mr. Boswell nor myself will be suspected of a
disposition to refuse. The elder of the Ladies read the English
service.
Inch Kenneth was once a seminary of ecclesiasticks, subordinate, I
suppose, to Icolmkill. Sir Allan had a mind to trace the
foundations of the college, but neither I nor Mr. Boswell, who
bends a keener eye on vacancy, were able to perceive them.
Our attention, however, was sufficiently engaged by a venerable
chapel, which stands yet entire, except that the roof is gone. It
is about sixty feet in length, and thirty in breadth. On one side
of the altar is a bas relief of the blessed Virgin, and by it lies
a little bell; which, though cracked, and without a clapper, has
remained there for ages, guarded only by the venerableness of the
place. The ground round the chapel is covered with grave-stones of
Chiefs and ladies; and still continues to be a place of sepulture.
Inch Kenneth is a proper prelude to Icolmkill. It was not without
some mournful emotion that we contemplated the ruins of religious
structures and the monuments of the dead.
On the next day we took a more distinct view of the place, and went
with the boat to see oysters in the bed, out of which the boat-men
forced up as many as were wanted. Even Inch Kenneth has a
subordinate Island, named Sandiland, I suppose in contempt, where
we landed, and found a rock, with a surface of perhaps four acres,
of which one is naked stone, another spread with sand and shells,
some of which I picked up for their glossy beauty, and two covered
with a little earth and grass, on which Sir Allan has a few sheep.
I doubt not but when there was a college at Inch Kenneth, there was
a hermitage upon Sandiland.
Having wandered over those extensive plains, we committed ourselves
again to the winds and waters; and after a voyage of about ten
minutes, in which we met with nothing very observable, were again
safe upon dry ground.
We told Sir Allan our desire of visiting Icolmkill, and entreated
him to give us his protection, and his company. He thought proper
to hesitate a little, but the Ladies hinted, that as they knew he
would not finally refuse, he would do better if he preserved the
grace of ready compliance. He took their advice, and promised to
carry us on the morrow in his boat.
We passed the remaining part of the day in such amusements as were
in our power. Sir Allan related the American campaign, and at
evening one of the Ladies played on her harpsichord, while Col and
Mr. Boswell danced a Scottish reel with the other.
We could have been easily persuaded to a longer stay upon Inch
Kenneth, but life will not be all passed in delight.
