But by whom the subterraneous vaults are peopled is now
utterly unknown. The graves are very numerous, and some of them
undoubtedly contain the remains of men, who did not expect to be so
soon forgotten.
Not far from this awful ground, may be traced the garden of the
monastery: the fishponds are yet discernible, and the aqueduct,
which supplied them, is still in use.
There remains a broken building, which is called the Bishop's
house, I know not by what authority. It was once the residence of
some man above the common rank, for it has two stories and a
chimney. We were shewn a chimney at the other end, which was only
a nich, without perforation, but so much does antiquarian
credulity, or patriotick vanity prevail, that it was not much more
safe to trust the eye of our instructor than the memory.
There is in the Island one house more, and only one, that has a
chimney: we entered it, and found it neither wanting repair nor
inhabitants; but to the farmers, who now possess it, the chimney is
of no great value; for their fire was made on the floor, in the
middle of the room, and notwithstanding the dignity of their
mansion, they rejoiced, like their neighbours, in the comforts of
smoke.
It is observed, that ecclesiastical colleges are always in the most
pleasant and fruitful places. While the world allowed the monks
their choice, it is surely no dishonour that they chose well. This
Island is remarkably fruitful. The village near the churches is
said to contain seventy families, which, at five in a family, is
more than a hundred inhabitants to a mile. There are perhaps other
villages: yet both corn and cattle are annually exported.
But the fruitfulness of Iona is now its whole prosperity. The
inhabitants are remarkably gross, and remarkably neglected: I know
not if they are visited by any Minister. The Island, which was
once the metropolis of learning and piety, has now no school for
education, nor temple for worship, only two inhabitants that can
speak English, and not one that can write or read.
The people are of the clan of Maclean; and though Sir Allan had not
been in the place for many years, he was received with all the
reverence due to their Chieftain. One of them being sharply
reprehended by him, for not sending him some rum, declared after
his departure, in Mr. Boswell's presence, that he had no design of
disappointing him, 'for,' said he, 'I would cut my bones for him;
and if he had sent his dog for it, he should have had it.'
When we were to depart, our boat was left by the ebb at a great
distance from the water, but no sooner did we wish it afloat, than
the islanders gathered round it, and, by the union of many hands,
pushed it down the beach; every man who could contribute his help
seemed to think himself happy in the opportunity of being, for a
moment, useful to his Chief.
We now left those illustrious ruins, by which Mr. Boswell was much
affected, nor would I willingly be thought to have looked upon them
without some emotion. Perhaps, in the revolutions of the world,
Iona may be sometime again the instructress of the Western Regions.
It was no long voyage to Mull, where, under Sir Allan's protection,
we landed in the evening, and were entertained for the night by Mr.
Maclean, a Minister that lives upon the coast, whose elegance of
conversation, and strength of judgment, would make him conspicuous
in places of greater celebrity. Next day we dined with Dr.
Maclean, another physician, and then travelled on to the house of a
very powerful Laird, Maclean of Lochbuy; for in this country every
man's name is Maclean.
Where races are thus numerous, and thus combined, none but the
Chief of a clan is addressed by his name. The Laird of Dunvegan is
called Macleod, but other gentlemen of the same family are
denominated by the places where they reside, as Raasa, or Talisker.
The distinction of the meaner people is made by their Christian
names. In consequence of this practice, the late Laird of
Macfarlane, an eminent genealogist, considered himself as
disrespectfully treated, if the common addition was applied to him.
Mr. Macfarlane, said he, may with equal propriety be said to many;
but I, and I only, am Macfarlane.
Our afternoon journey was through a country of such gloomy
desolation, that Mr. Boswell thought no part of the Highlands
equally terrifick, yet we came without any difficulty, at evening,
to Lochbuy, where we found a true Highland Laird, rough and
haughty, and tenacious of his dignity; who, hearing my name,
inquired whether I was of the Johnstons of Glencroe, or of
Ardnamurchan.
Lochbuy has, like the other insular Chieftains, quitted the castle
that sheltered his ancestors, and lives near it, in a mansion not
very spacious or splendid. I have seen no houses in the Islands
much to be envied for convenience or magnificence, yet they bare
testimony to the progress of arts and civility, as they shew that
rapine and surprise are no longer dreaded, and are much more
commodious than the ancient fortresses.
The castles of the Hebrides, many of which are standing, and many
ruined, were always built upon points of land, on the margin of the
sea. For the choice of this situation there must have been some
general reason, which the change of manners has left in obscurity.
They were of no use in the days of piracy, as defences of the
coast; for it was equally accessible in other places.
