Egg is the principal
Island of a parish, in which, though he has no congregation, the
Protestant Minister resides. I have heard of nothing curious in
it, but the cave in which a former generation of the Islanders were
smothered by Macleod.
If we had travelled with more leisure, it had not been fit to have
neglected the Popish Islands. Popery is favourable to ceremony;
and among ignorant nations, ceremony is the only preservative of
tradition. Since protestantism was extended to the savage parts of
Scotland, it has perhaps been one of the chief labours of the
Ministers to abolish stated observances, because they continued the
remembrance of the former religion. We therefore who came to hear
old traditions, and see antiquated manners, should probably have
found them amongst the Papists.
Canna, the other Popish Island, belongs to Clanronald. It is said
not to comprise more than twelve miles of land, and yet maintains
as many inhabitants as Rum.
We were at Col under the protection of the young Laird, without any
of the distresses, which Mr. Pennant, in a fit of simple credulity,
seems to think almost worthy of an elegy by Ossian. Wherever we
roved, we were pleased to see the reverence with which his subjects
regarded him. He did not endeavour to dazzle them by any
magnificence of dress: his only distinction was a feather in his
bonnet; but as soon as he appeared, they forsook their work and
clustered about him: he took them by the hand, and they seemed
mutually delighted. He has the proper disposition of a Chieftain,
and seems desirous to continue the customs of his house. The
bagpiper played regularly, when dinner was served, whose person and
dress made a good appearance; and he brought no disgrace upon the
family of Rankin, which has long supplied the Lairds of Col with
hereditary musick.
The Tacksmen of Col seem to live with less dignity and convenience
than those of Sky; where they had good houses, and tables not only
plentiful, but delicate. In Col only two houses pay the window
tax; for only two have six windows, which, I suppose, are the
Laird's and Mr. Macsweyn's.
The rents have, till within seven years, been paid in kind, but the
tenants finding that cattle and corn varied in their price, desired
for the future to give their landlord money; which, not having yet
arrived at the philosophy of commerce, they consider as being every
year of the same value.
We were told of a particular mode of under-tenure. The Tacksman
admits some of his inferior neighbours to the cultivation of his
grounds, on condition that performing all the work, and giving a
third part of the seed, they shall keep a certain number of cows,
sheep, and goats, and reap a third part of the harvest.
