The day soon failed us, and the moon
presented a very solemn and pleasing scene. The sky was clear, so
that the eye commanded a wide circle: the sea was neither still
nor turbulent: the wind neither silent nor loud. We were never
far from one coast or another, on which, if the weather had become
violent, we could have found shelter, and therefore contemplated at
ease the region through which we glided in the tranquillity of the
night, and saw now a rock and now an island grow gradually
conspicuous and gradually obscure. I committed the fault which I
have just been censuring, in neglecting, as we passed, to note the
series of this placid navigation.
We were very near an Island, called Nun's Island, perhaps from an
ancient convent. Here is said to have been dug the stone that was
used in the buildings of Icolmkill. Whether it is now inhabited we
could not stay to inquire.
At last we came to Icolmkill, but found no convenience for landing.
Our boat could not be forced very near the dry ground, and our
Highlanders carried us over the water.
We were now treading that illustrious Island, which was once the
luminary of the Caledonian regions, whence savage clans and roving
barbarians derived the benefits of knowledge, and the blessings of
religion. To abstract the mind from all local emotion would be
impossible, if it were endeavoured, and would be foolish, if it
were possible. Whatever withdraws us from the power of our senses;
whatever makes the past, the distant, or the future predominate
over the present, advances us in the dignity of thinking beings.
Far from me and from my friends, be such frigid philosophy as may
conduct us indifferent and unmoved over any ground which has been
dignified by wisdom, bravery, or virtue. That man is little to be
envied, whose patriotism would not gain force upon the plain of
Marathon, or whose piety would not grow warmer among the ruins of
Iona!
We came too late to visit monuments: some care was necessary for
ourselves. Whatever was in the Island, Sir Allan could command,
for the inhabitants were Macleans; but having little they could not
give us much. He went to the headman of the Island, whom Fame, but
Fame delights in amplifying, represents as worth no less than fifty
pounds. He was perhaps proud enough of his guests, but ill
prepared for our entertainment; however, he soon produced more
provision than men not luxurious require. Our lodging was next to
be provided. We found a barn well stocked with hay, and made our
beds as soft as we could.
In the morning we rose and surveyed the place. The churches of the
two convents are both standing, though unroofed.
