Market day is used as a day for confession, and the clergy are on hard
duty on that day. Skibbereen boasts of a bishop and numerous resident
priests. The town is as quiet as if such a thing as a riot, an outrage
or a mob was never known.
In a little corner, squeezed in between houses, is a neat Methodist
chapel and the parsonage beside it. Called on the minister, who received
me graciously and was courteous and communicative. Having been by virtue
of his office over a great part of Ireland he had seen a good deal of
the oppression of the tenant, partly from the thoughtlessness of
absentee landlords, partly from the want of any sympathy with the
tenants. Had the Land League confined themselves to moderate efforts,
and to the employment of constitutional means - means not tending to the
dismemberment of the empire, he would have joined them with heart and
soul, knowing the need there was of redress to the wrongs of the small
farmer. He advised me to take a car and go on to Skull through
Ballydehob if I wished to see poverty and misery.
The road from Skibbereen to Ballydehob and Skull runs along the coast
mostly. All that grand rocks and great stretches of water dotted with
many islands can do to make this scenery grand, wild and romantic has
been done by Dame Nature. It is not satisfying to merely pass along. One
would like to tarry here and get acquainted with nature in these out-of-
the-way haunts of hers. The cottages are most miserable, most ruinous.
There is no limestone here. It resembles Achil Island in this respect.
The houses are built of stones and daubed with clay. The clay soon
filters away under the combined action of winter wind and winter frost,
and the houses look like piles of stones tottering to fall.
I heard of a pier being built somewhere here, with part of the Canadian
money, which a priest assured me would be a great benefit to the poor
people. I was very sorry to leave this part without seeing more of the
country and the people. I left Skibbereen on a car for a journey by the
coast the other way to meet the train at Bandon to return to Cork.
The only industry of any kind which I saw between Skibbereen and Bandon
was a slate quarry which they told me shipped a great quantity of slates
besides supplying local demands. As we advanced eastward we left the
heather-clad mountains behind us, the landscape softened down
considerably, and became almost empty of inhabitants. That reminds me
that about Skull was almost emptied of inhabitants also. About the time
of the great famine the people fled away.
