When trade revives and prosperity dawns upon the West the fierce blood,
like the Norman blood elsewhere, will go out in enterprise and spend
itself in improvements.
Land was pointed out to me in Galway for which L4 an acre was paid by
village people to plant potatoes in. This is called conacre. In going
through Galway City, even in the suburbs, I did not see great appealing
poverty such as I saw elsewhere. There was the bustle of work and the
independence of work everywhere, but in the country, there seems poverty
mixed with the fierce impatience of seeing no better way to mend
matters. I heard of evictions having taken place here and there, but saw
none.
LII.
THE LAKES OF KILLARNEY.
There is a good deal of disturbance about Limerick, according to the
papers. A traveller would never discover it. It does not appear on the
surface. I have been a little here and there in the environs of
Limerick, and have seen no sign of any mob or any disturbance. Police go
out unexpectedly to do eviction service and it is only known when the
report comes in the papers.
I did not hear in Limerick town or county, in any place where I happened
to be, of any landlord who had got renown for any special hardness.
There was a person boycotted quite near to the city who was getting help
from neighboring landowners to gather in his crops. What his offence was
I did not learn.
In Limerick I met with an old and very dear friend who gave me a few
facts about boycotting as seen in personal experience. An outlying farm
was taken by my friend from which a widow lady had been evicted before
the present agitation commenced. A premium of L100 was paid for
possession. My friends had congratulated themselves on this transaction
having occurred before the organization of the Land League; but one
night an armed and masked party took the widow lady and reinstated her
in her place. My friends were startled a little by a visit from this
party, who informed them that they were returning from reinstating the
lady in her place. Had they any objection? No, they had no objection.
Would they disturb her in possession? No, they would not disturb her in
possession. If they had only the L100 which they had invested they were
quite willing to surrender the farm. Three cheers were given for my
friends, three cheers for the widow lady, a gun was fired off, there was
a wild cheer for Rory of the Hills, and they disappeared. The widow lady
after some time quietly left the place of her own accord, and everything
was as it had been before. They, the armed party, found out that they
were not doing the lady a kindness by reinstating her, and so the matter
ended.
Limerick, though an old city, is not a very large one. Going down the
principal street - George's street - you can look down any of the cross
streets beyond the masts on Shannon and see on the other side of the
river oats, waving yellow and in stocks, up the slope. Standing on the
Wellesley Bridge, where young Fitzgibbon in bronze stands on a granite
pedestal, perpetually endeavoring to draw his sword - which he succeeded
in drawing to some purpose at Alma and Inkerman, if we are to credit the
pedestal, which we do - you can look down the Shannon, over the boats and
among the steamboat chimneys and the ships' masts, and see the green
banks of the Shannon, broad and wide, with cattle standing ankle deep in
the rich pasture. You can see them as they extend far away, widening as
they go, till the horizon shuts out any farther view. The constant rain
of these two last months, I am afraid, will damage the ripening crop. It
is near the close of August and there is hay yet uncut, there is hay
lying out in every form of bleached windrow, or lap, or spread, under
the rain. Some of it looks quite spoiled.
No one, I suppose, leaves Limerick without gazing at and perhaps wishing
for some of the beautiful specimens of Limerick lace that are displayed
in the shop-windows.
From Limerick to Killarney in the rain through a country gradually
growing poorer. At the junction there was a detention which enabled me
to walk about a little. There was a detachment of police that filled a
couple of car passing on their way to eviction in one direction; a large
detachment returning from eviction got out of the cars here. Eviction in
this part of Ireland is feverishly active, and on every hand you hear of
Mr. Clifford Lloyd. A person with whom I had some conversation told me I
could have no idea of the state of the country without penetrating
through it away from the line of rail. Of course this is so.
As we neared Killarney the waters were out over the low lying lands and
the hay looked pitiful. In a pelting rain we steamed into Killarney,
passed through the army of cabmen and their allies and were whirled away
to Lakeview House on the banks of the lower Killarney lake, a pretty
place standing in its own grounds. Killarney is a nice little town with
some astonishing buildings. I have heard it styled as a dirty town; it
struck me as both clean and rather stylish in its general appearance. It
seems to depend almost entirely on tourists. Unlike Limerick, unlike
Galway, but very like other western towns the number of people standing
idly at the corners, or leaning against a tree to shelter from the rain,
strikes a stranger painfully.
