I have these few days past, for want of better
employment, walked through several parts of London that I had not
before seen. Yesterday I endeavoured to reach the west end of the
town; and I walked several miles, when finding it was grown quite
dark, I turned back quite tired, without having accomplished my end.
Nothing in London makes so disgusting an appearance to a foreigner,
as the butchers' shops, especially in the environs of the Tower.
Guts and all the nastiness are thrown into the middle of the street,
and cause an insupportable stench.
I have forgot to describe the 'Change to you; this beautiful
building is a long square in the centre of which is an open area,
where the merchants assemble. All round, there are covered walks
supported by pillars on which the name of the different commercial
nations you may wish to find are written up, that among the crowd of
people you may be able to find each other. There are also stone
benches made under the covered walks, which after a ramble from St.
Catherine's, for example, hither, are very convenient to rest
yourself.
On the walls all kinds of handbills are stuck up. Among others I
read one of singular contents. A clergyman exhorted the people not
to assent to the shameful Act of Parliament for the toleration of
Catholics, by suffering their children to their eternal ruin to be
instructed and educated by them; but rather to give him, an orthodox
clergyman of the Church of England, this employ and this emolument.
In the middle of the area is a stone statue of Charles the Second.
As I sat here on a bench, and gazed on the immense crowds that
people London, I thought that, as to mere dress and outward
appearance, these here did not seem to be materially different from
our people at Berlin.
Near the 'Change is a shop where, for a penny or even a halfpenny
only, you may read as many newspapers as you will. There are always
a number of people about these shops, who run over the paper as they
stand, pay their halfpenny, and then go on.
Near the 'Change there is a little steeple with a set of bells which
have a charming tone, but they only chime one or two lively tunes,
though in this part of the City you constantly hear bells ringing in
your ears.
It has struck me that in London there is no occasion for any
elementary works or prints, for the instruction of children. One
need only lead them into the City, and show them the things
themselves as they really are. For here it is contrived, as much as
possible, to place in view for the public inspection every
production of art, and every effort of industry. Paintings,
mechanisms, curiosities of all kinds, are here exhibited in the
large and light shop windows, in the most advantageous manner; nor
are spectators wanting, who here and there, in the middle of the
street, stand still to observe any curious performance.
